Best Of
Re: Understanding Plumbing Licensing Suffolk/Nassau
Pretty good list. Plumbers should show it to their customers who complain about their rates.
Re: Cast iron radiator output tables are wrong?
@hot_rod Thanks for that. Interesting that the text in your final screen shot talks about the mismatch between "legacy" (pre-1980) systems that were designed for high water temps, so aren't a good match for mod-cons.
Ironically, our even older "legacy" system here (circa 1930) would be ideal for a mod-con, because we have so much radiation that we could probably heat the entire building with sub-120 degree water.
What's old becomes new again if you wait long enough. 😊

Re: Old Brooklyn NY church
This was a very common arrangement to get fresh air into a building and stale air out — in the days when we weren't concerned much about energy conservation. And it worked and worked well. No fans needed, no electricity, silent… easily controlled… what's not to like? Except that it wasn't all that efficient…
I saw a number of these when I was inspecting schools in Vermont, some 50 years ago.
Re: loss of system pressure and failing high limit
I have noticed a defective L8124A from time to time. The sensing probe is a copper bulb that is inserted into a dry well adaptor. That keeps you from needing to drain the boiler to change the control. The other end of that bulb is connected by a thin capillary tube to a pressure sensitive bellows on the back of an adjustable switch. That bellows and switch combination can fall out of calibration over time. When that happens it is usually time to replace the control. The L7224U is less expensive and is more accurate with digital readout of temperature.
Re: Installing wifi-smart thermostat with 2-3 wires hydronic heat-only
TR100VA004 is a multi-tap (480/277/240/120 volt) primary 24 volt secondary, TR100VA002 is a single-tap 120 volt primary, Other than that, they're identical. You should be able to use either one, be sure to cap off the unused primary taps individually if you use the 004.

Re: Why would my pressure relief drip leg leak a little?
Why do you think they call it a "drip" leg? 😂
But, seriously, you're supposed to replace those things every now and then, leaks or no, and it's supposed to be mounted upright. (I always save the most recent ones if they're not leaking, just in case the new one fails.) You're also supposed to test them now and then. If they don't close completely, they need to be changed.
Re: Why would my pressure relief drip leg leak a little?
The boiler being oversized is no excuse for operating a boiler at excess pressure. All that does is make the added fuel use and expense worse — as well as damaging all the vents and traps.
Crank it down where it belongs.
Re: Seeking your thoughts regarding a boiler/system upgrade for a small 1980s ranch.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Does the present system work? Will your building inspector for the sale test it? He or she should…
If it does need a new boiler, get it sized correctly to the load. I wouldn't spend the extra to save the 5 percent or so on what a mod/con might give you.
Re: ? actual difference between hot water heaters from supplyhouses and big box stores
I can tell you for a fact that the Lowe's version of the Honeywell TH8110 thermostat has (or at least had, I haven't checked since I originally noticed) a different casting of the case, made with different plastic, than the supply house version. Who knows what other changes have been made.

Re: ? actual difference between hot water heaters from supplyhouses and big box stores
A co worker told me years ago he was talking to a DeWalt rep who told him the HD stuff had plastic gears and was not the same as you could by elsewhere.
Don't know it it is true.
I suspect some MFG dial it down cheaper to sell to HD
and I think others sell there standard products to HD if the price is right.