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Re: Lochinvar boiler isn’t keeping up
i have a similar setup to theirs but with a 20,000 btu/hr larger boiler and i can run it out of hot water with a long, adequate shower all by myself. if they want to fill a big tub or use 2 or more showers at once their capacity is way too small. they would need a huge electric to do it with electric because of its essentially nonexistent recovery rate compared to their consumption. that boiler can recover an 80 gallon tank in less than half an hour. electric would take about 130 minutes to recover 80 gallons.
Re: Lochinvar boiler isn’t keeping up
it is usually better to size the boiler to the heating load and get the needed dhw capacity with bigger indirect tank(s). if you get the capacity through boiler sizing then the boiler won't have sufficient turndown to match the heating load when it isn't at design conditions which will be most of the time.
Re: Lochinvar boiler isn’t keeping up
Hi, Another option could be to add a 40 gallon (or bigger) tank in series with the existing 40 and pipe it so both are heated by the boiler. It could be a lower cost way of solving part of the problem. Still seems DHW priority isn't figured out yet.
Yours, Larry
Re: Argo AR826 schematic?
I'm thinking the L8148A Aquastat should have the ultimate On-Off circulator control. The AR826 just steers which circulator is used and is the DHW call for heat to the T-T of the L8148A Aquastat.
During no call for heat the L8148A Aquastat should shut down all power to the circulator(s). However that may disable the DHW independent autonomous priority.
I fear the way they have it wired, you have a 'Which is first the Chicken or the Egg' circulator power situation. since if the L8148A Aquastat kills the power to the AR826 you loose the ability to have an independent DHW call. Not good.
Re: Lochinvar boiler isn’t keeping up
a 40 gallon tank? with a 2 gpm recovery? for 3 and a half baths? nope.
Re: Lochinvar boiler isn’t keeping up
You're asking an awful lot of that system. 80,000 BTUh for domestic hot water works out to about 2.5 to 3.gpm recovery rate — call it 3 litres — per minute. That's one shower — and pushing it for just one shower.
What's happening is that that one shower (or bath) takes all of that 40 gallon tank, or nearly so, and the water heater simply can't heat the water flowing through hot enough. So you need to wait for the boiler to catch up — which it will, but not that fast.
Solution? Bigger tank. That won't solve the problem completely, but with an 80 gallon tank — which is the largest you can get for a residence but is the smallest I'd recommend — you'll have a better chance.
Also set it to hold the water at 60 Celsius or so and use a thermostatic mixing valve to bring it down at the outlet to a save temperature.
Re: boiler vibrating
The best way would be to start a free youtube account, upload your video there and share it here. If you don't want the youtube video to be public you can make it unlisted and share the direct URL here. anyone with the URL can see the video but it won't show up on your youtube profile or in a search bar
Re: Calling Peerless 63-series Owners: A Venting Mystery
Hi @dabrakeman I think the reply above got put onto a different thread than intended
Re: Argo AR826 schematic?
This may help ?
Looks like it is in Priority when the picture was taken. I assume the switch is up for priority.
Your actual issue may be elsewhere. That box may only just provide Priority for the DHW (Domestic Hot Water) circulator. When there is 'No Priority' it may simply provide power for the heat zone circulator which may be controlled by another device. That box (the AR826) does not appear to provide 'Thermostatic Control' for the heat zone circulator. It other words it only interrupts the power for the heat zone circulator to favor DHW circulator.
There is multiple pairs of wires connected to the X-X terminals which leads me to believe there is other control equipment.
You can inspect the relays (the contacts) if they are in sockets and if they are the same part number you can rearrange then to see if the symptoms change. Mark their original location.
The "24 VAC Zone Valve" terminals has me confused as to their purpose (and not used in your case).
Is it just a 24 VAC supply for a thermostat / zone valve circuit.
A control input from a zone valve end switch.
Or a means to interrupt a zone valve control circuit to prioritize the water flow for the DHW.
Re: Mystery water leak - excess water take up problem
why wouldn't the new independence also require the chimney be repaired?


