Best Of
Re: Steam pressure question
@geemalar Use a brass pigtail …not steel and all brass fittings. Put the low-pressure gauge on. Also replace your 0-30 gauge as well.
If it was me I would put a 1/4" ball valve or petcock under the new lo pressure gauge and keep it shut off unless your checking the pressure….it will last longer.
And don't worry about the lack of pressure. The lower it is the better. As long as the house heats and is quiet that is 90% of the battle.
Re: Packing Heat
@DCContrarian You are wasting your breath. Once somebody drinks the free solar energy coolaid, no amount of science will get them back.
We both know that, except for pool heating, solar thermal is dead. If it would be cost effective, people would use it. Never mind the maintaince cost of all the plumbing down the road.

Re: Lochinvar WB80 not lighting, many new parts already. SOLVED
i can see some of the solder joints look a little iffy but it is out of focus where i need to see well

Re: System 2000, nearly double the cost of Weil McLain, is it worth it?
No pricing allowed, so edit please.
Do you have the CP number? There might be a prorated warranty on the block.
But yes, the System 2000 is that much better. And yes, it can sit all summer. Even the GO can sit.

Re: Single pipe radiator
Need some pitch. The takeoff from the end of the main pretty much guarantees water in the lateral.
Is that main counterflow? If not, it needs to go to a drip or crossover trap- not a supply line.
If you're feeling frisky, repipe it as 2 pipe like the rest of the system. 😉
Re: Utica now offering 12 year warranties, longest in industry
I think Utica is pretty good.
Everyone complains about the side outlets on steam. Can anyone say if they are installed properly that they have issues?
@GW installs them if I am not mistaken and I haven't heard any complaints.
If you want a complaint buy a Burnham or one of their rebrands.
I agree that get any MFG to honor any warranty is hit or miss.
No matter how good the install they will find some issue, or they will blame it on water quality, the nearby bucket of laundry soap, the chimney & flue, the wiring has gremlins, bad fuel the pipe not being insulated or some other nonsense.
Who is left for CI residential steam boilers?? Smith is gone.
Weil/Williamson
Burnham
Peerless
Utica/Dunkirk
Force, Crown & New Yorker are all Burnham rebrands
Re: One year old Williamson-Thermoflo heat exchanger failure
I agree that a bad chimney or lack of draft usually shows up as a coked-up nozzle, burned retention head or blast tube, melted coupling, soot on the floor around the burner and soot-stained electrodes.
Don't assume that the MFGs are always right or know what they are doing because they don't.
Some of you may recall an Adams oil fired furnace I installed about 7 years ago that I posted about.
The HX was NG on the initial start up because the factory "forgot" to weld a steel plate in the hX.
Another time it was a Miller oil fired furnace for a trailer, again brand new with a bad spot in one of the welds.
Williamson at the very least should cover the cost of and supply a new HX.
It's only going to cost them $200 or so + shipping
Lawsuits cost more than that.
I would make them eat it.
I would also tell the supply house to put pressure on Williamson or they will lose your business.
Re: One year old Williamson-Thermoflo heat exchanger failure
Re: Seeking Engineer for Off-Grid Religious Facility Heating in the Mountain States
If PV with battery backup is allowed then a lot more options are on the table.
Re: Replumbing: Solder or Threads for Ball Valves
Galvanized in cold water is still in usable shape after 60 or 70 years, 100 years out of soldered copper is reasonable. I'm not convinced about the o-rings in propress either although it is crimped in such a way that there is a lot less reliance on it remaining pliable.
