Best Of
Re: Air to Water Heat Pumps
I'd rather put the buffer on the return side so there's no delay in conditioned water hitting the emitters.
Re: Used baseboard questions
Yes the fins need to be open top to bottom or no convection is possible. Judging by the plastic sliders they were not installed correctly.
hot_rod
Re: Possible Tekmar replacement or tweaks?
I've also used the 279 for about seven years. Because of the unknown algorithm regarding the room sensors (which Tekmar refuses to divulge), I decided NOT to use them. I tweaked the heating curve, and the radiator venting over the course of one year and got it to the point where MOST apartments (there are six on three floors) maintain a comfortable temp throughout the year. A couple get up to 74° or so on occasion…………..not a concern for me. I run it on a 45 minute cycle which keeps the insulated mains quite warm and gets steam to the end of the mains in less than two minutes.
As mentioned, the WWSD is your best friend. This one is set to 62° due to plenty of residual heat in the building from people and cooking.
If you are dead set on keeping the sensors, you could use the second sensor in a different room and the 279 will average the two. I understand the difficulty in wiring it…………..!
The probe for the steam temp is notorious for failing. I've already gone through three of them. You need the capability to access it.
LRCCBJ
Re: Proposed Piping Layout
Thanks @Big Ed_4 , the purpose of the mixing valve is boiler return water protection, it keeps the return above 130 degrees. When it is just Zone 1 running, since the piping and radiation was designed for another era, it would take over 45 minutes to get the return temperature over 120-125
The smaller zones, 2-4, never had that issue since the mass is much smaller, but I think I read that Dan's book suggests having the boiler protection in place.
DJDrew
Re: What I think
You made the right decision then, no one would invest in a 37 year old system.
What's your design temp there?
ChrisJ
Re: Possible Tekmar replacement or tweaks?
Tek mar is the best. The other option is a Heat Timer which is big $$$ and does not work as well. Balance the system with venting and run the pressure as low as possible.
Re: What I think
I take it as it uses X amount of fuel, and produces X amount of heat output.
I'm not sure how else it could be taken? How else would you size a furnace? The input amount is only relevant to sizing the fuel source. The Bonnet capacity would be the only thing you have to go on for sizing it to the structure.
However,
This is really, really far off topic. Maybe we need a new thread about older equipment and alleged efficiencies.
ChrisJ
Re: Heating an Old House: Gas Heat Options
It all depends on what you want to spend and how the existing work is done. If you extend the existing ductwork to the 1st floor the ac will never be even between the floors unless you zone it. You could add ac to the first floor. You could add a hydroair coil to the existing furnace and control the blower to heat the second floor off the boiler. You could add hydronic emitters to the second floor and add either mini split or ducted ac to the first floor with a separate system. There are lots of options.
mattmia2
Re: Minisplit sizing - 1920’s Victorian in Northeast
You aren't even close to having enough information yet. With no wall insulation, this house is not a great candidate for heat pumps. Spend the money on tightening up the envelope and insulating and they will save more in the long run.
