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Re: Lochinvar Knight Boiler Flame Fail Ignition Errors - ready to pull my hair out
Yes, this can be tough to do if you don’t have a DHW indirect to increase the setpoint temperature or the heating system is locked out on WWSD. Creating a demand can be impossible. Look up the weather and make an appointment for a cold morning? Or disconnect the outdoor sensor.
Re: Am I missing something here?
With all due respect, steam heat is based on the total radiating surface of the system. Steam does not care if the heat is leaving through a radiator or through a distribution pipe. Whether or not a pipe is insulated sure does make a difference in sizing a steam system. So if the wall its going through is not insulated (because people don't typically insulate the pipes on their own in the wall; the pipe is effectively insulated only if the wall its traveling through is full of insulation), then it matters. You're right that the rate that heat leaves the house isn't part of the system design, It makes no difference if I've got 12" of fiberglass in my attic. But it does matter if the distribution pipe is encased in insulation, since that will impact the heat being distributed out of the system. If I've got 60 square feet of pipe radiating at 240 BTUs per square foot because they aren't insulated, that extra load matters.
And as you know, when people match a boiler rating to the EDR of their radiators, the rating on the boiler includes a 33% pickup factor. If we want to actually calculate a better value, rather than going with the Carbon Commission recommendation or a rule of thumb, we've got to take that pickup factor out first. So 400 sq ft EDR with a 33% pickup baked in is 300 sq ft + 33% (100 sq ft), so its 300 sq ft of "real" plus an assumed 100sq ft of pickup. Everyone says that 33% is too big, so lets get a better number for it. So if we're going to calculate the real value, take out the 33% factor, and then account for measured, instead of assumed piping heat loss. In this case, the real piping loss is about 20% (60 sq ft). 20% number (which is specific to the case where the pipes are as long as mine and radiate as much heat as mine; insulated pipes would be less) is probably understating it, but the point is that its big enough to make a difference.
So you can figure out the real number by taking the pickup out of the EDR calculations, or taking it out of the boiler rating; it doesn't matter, since you just compare the two of them. The point is to take out the pickup factor, then add in the real, measured loss from the system piping. Thats a more accurate number than some general rule of thumb.
Re: Am I missing something here?
This discussion has run its course so we're going to close the thread. Just a reminder to all to be respectful in your comments. Thank you.
Re: Check out this puppy.
@Long Beach Ed It looks like American Radiator put it's name on it. but be careful pluggin' that into the electric outlet. See the insulation missing on that lamp cord near the valve?
Re: Water heater leak? Cause?
The leak is small enough to not actually be wet. That means that some moisture is coming thru a fitting and evaporating away. That needs to be taken apart, cleaned, redressed with pipe joint sealer/compound, teflon tape or all of the above. Then re-assembled tight enough to not leak in the future. Then the union must be re-assembled with the proper gaskets.
Once the repairs are completed I would use a wire brush to get rid of as much rust as possible. Then I would put a coat of Rustoleum over those spots. That way if the rust comes back, then you will know that it is not fixed.
Those are the correct unions for connecting copper to the steel tank.
You may also have a venting problem. when the water heater starts hole a smoking cigarette (or Joint) neat the vent hood and see which way the smoke goes. If you do this on a muggy day when there is some light rain happening, is the best time to take that test. (basically we are looking for low barometric pressure for that smoke test). If the smoke blowa away for a fes seconds on start up then swiftly mover inti the draft hood and uo the chimney, then you dont have a venting issue. If however you the smoke does not enter the chimney of is entering the chimney very slow and lazy, then you may have a venting problem.
In either case you may want to have a professional chimney sweep or a professional HVAC or Plumber that understands venting systems do an inspection to be safe.
Re: Honeywell R845A transformer output?
That thermostat has trouble switching if the voltage isn't there. The little internal battery isn't charging. Get a digital with AA batteries for switching like the Honeywell T4. If you don't want programmable, you can programmable it to be non programmable.
HVACNUT
