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Re: Seeking Engineer for Off-Grid Religious Facility Heating in the Mountain States

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1843648#Comment_1843648

Hmm. Good question. But, with piping sizes from an old manual and remembering pitch etc, I'd think it would be "doable". Gravity Hot Water would have it's own issues, maybe more these days.

delcrossv

1

Re: Should I use a chemical cleaner on my 100 yr old system?

Any pictures? A Loss Loss Header with a Dirt/Steel magnet 🧲 is all I would do. Mad Dog 🐕

Mad Dog_2

2

Re: DIRECTION OF STEAM TRAVEL

The manufacture's instructions is pretty specific on the near boiler piping. Post a photo of the piping from far enough back so we can see the pipes from floor to ceiling. at least 3 different sides

EdTheHeaterMan

3

Re: I need a TRV for a Honeywell V2043HSL10 one pipe steam valve

Are these inlet valves or vents? I hope you are not trying to use the inlet valves for control. They aren't meant for that. Use the vents.

Jamie Hall

1

Re: Expansion Tank Orientation

A properly charged expansion tank in a cold properly filled system holds no water.

A tank with no air pressure can hold lots of water while a union or port is opened on the water side. Air pressure in the tank is needed to push that water out.

Teemok

1

Re: Expansion Tank Orientation

I have had diaphragm tanks that were run with near zero air them for years. They would not take any air at all. Over 100 psi and nothing. My theory is that the stretched diaphragm covers the port and sticks “welds” there not letting air in or the port corrodes closed or something like that. Next one I find I’ll cut open.

To the horizontal tank point. I have lots of diaphragm tanks that are in the horizontal working great for over 15+ years.

There are tanks that have full acceptance bags in instead of diaphragms and they are vertical only, hanging best.

Teaching or figuring out the differences in tanks is harder than making a rule new guys can just follow. They can then confidently tell people tanks are wrong when they don’t really understand why. A huge number of vehement opinions on tanks can’t test or fill them properly. Poor or no maintenance leads to many early tank deaths. Open systems with closed system tanks is a thing too.

Teemok

2

Re: Residential boiler cycling again. House cold.

An ECM circ is not a good choice for a cast iron system without a healthy magnetic separator. The 15-58 is a nearly bulletproof circulator, but the check valve does not need to be there with a single zone system. Was the system working well in the meantime, even during these nasty cold days we've been having (assuming you're in MN, per the screen name)? There seems to be a bit of a pressure issue between the gauge and relief, but that would not be causing the lack of temp. Without a few temp readings, there is no way to know what the issue might be but hopefully you can get us some good photos that may reveal something. If there is still a call for heat when the boiler cuts out, the temp of the supply piping exiting the boiler should be very similar in temp to the piping entering the radiation- do you maybe have an infrared temp gun that you could use to get a baseline on those aforementioned temps? Even just by feel alone possibly?