Best Of
Re: Buderas motorized exhaust question
postscript for this post: The technician removed the motor housing to expose the exhaust damper. It was not opening fully due to a sticky hinge. The damper is opened by the suction of the squirrel-cage fan, so any slight friction will prevent it from operating properly. Graphite would seem the proper lubricant for this high-temperature application.
Re: Weil McClain Gold Oil - Water Level Issue
Well now, there are only two ways that water can get into a boiler, and it can't make water on its own. So…
The first way is through the automatic water feeder. They have been known to leak. However, there should be a shutoff valve on the water line to the feeder. That is what you shut off when you say you shut off water to the boiler? You didn't just turn off the feeder, you actually closed the independent shutoff valve?
OK. Then it isn't the feeder.
The other way water can get into a boiler is if it also has a coil for heating your hot water, and I note that you do say that people have suggested you might have to replace the coil. So, check that. Again, there should be a valve from the cold water domestic line to the hot water coil on the boiler. Close that and make sure any mixing valve faucets (showers, lavatories, kitchen sink, whatever) show no hot water flow. Try them all, then close them. Does the water still rise? It shouldn't.
Report back, please.
Re: Change circulator pump and flo control valve
That depends entirely upon what's on the other side, but there will almost certainly be much more once you break the flanges loose. Get a bucket or tub below the circ after you get everything out of the drain, and catch the remaining water in there. Obviously close the nearest valve(s) to the right as well.
GroundUp
Re: Utica MGB-150k vs Burnham x205N 140MBTU vs Navien New NFB-H Series (combi)
My opinion is that a combi is a poor choice and a Navien combi is a worse one.
Re: Sanitary sewer pipe thru box culvert?
No Rick, you cannot do it legally.
The DEP and EPA would skewer you if they trace it back to you.
leonz
Re: Vertically Levelling a Radiator and Tie Rod Tightness
The above on levelling side to side. The tension rod should be tight when cold — but not real tight. Don't need a torque wrench, but if the threads are clean take it up to finger tight, and then no more than 1/2 turn with a wrench. No more than that.
Re: Heavy corrosion on indirect HW tank cold inlet
I think the stainless nipple is welded into that tank in tank indirect. The hose bib is to drain it as there is no bottom drain
The brass tee, which is reusable, is enough of a dielectric
hot_rod
Re: Condensate reservoir blown to bits due to delayed ignition
No matter your next steps to getting a functioning boiler, I would replace the regulators. Often the gas company will do this for you, perhaps letting them know a portion of the boiler blew up would get them to act quickly. As for your boiler, is it fixable? probably… but it appears that it wasn't being maintained as well as you thought. Those coffee grounds that blasted out of the trap imply whoever serviced it had not been flushing out the heat exchanger as they were supposed to. I can tell you for me personally I wouldn't be putting $500 into a gas valve (that we don't know if its bad or not), I would be putting that money towards a new boiler with a new warranty. If I were going to fix the boiler though, my first step would be changing the regulators (do this either way) then checking with the manufacturer to make sure the condensate assembly is sold independently of the heat exchanger, replace the condensate assembly, fully clean the heat exchanger, and start over the steps of dialing in combustion, include tech support in this, and test the gas valve with them before replacing it. If I were told I needed to get a new heat exchanger for the condensate assembly I would likely be back into looking for a new boiler
GGross
Re: Vertically Levelling a Radiator and Tie Rod Tightness
I'd make sure the floor isn't rotting out too, looks kind of wet there.
mattmia2