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Re: Correct Venting for faster Radiator heat up??
Please post a photo of the vent on the attic radiator. Key type vents are generally meant for hot water, not for steam; you may just have the wrong type of vent on there.
Also, you may need to slow the venting on the radiators that heat quickly to speed up the slow ones.
Re: Possible boiler leak
You will need an oil burner tech to set up the burner on the new boiler.
Re: Furnace question
Hi, That square headed screw looks like what would be used to secure the blower wheel to the motor shaft. Not having it snugly in place while powering the motor could easily damage both the motor shaft and blower wheel. 🙀
Yours, Larry
Re: Boiler install question
@seized123 Said:
Can one person (or if I’m lucky, two), get this thing off the blocks and outside and a similar Weil-Mclain up? How in heck do you guys do it? Assuming the new one got dropped in my driveway, it’s a straight level run through the garage to the basement. But could I even move this thing with a hand truck? Your techniques? (SupplyHouse says it would weigh about 600 lbs without burner!) But most especially, how in heck do you maneuver it up on the blocks? I know it’s done every day ….
I would always answer "how do you do it". with "Like the Egyptians"
You do not lift the entire 600 lbs. off the ground. You let gravity help you. It is all around you and can help you steady that large weight in many ways. Leverage is another tool. To start out with. you can tilt the boiler so that the boiler resting on two legs on the left. someone then removes the blocks on the right. now you let the boiler down on the right legs and tilt it a little more and someone takes out two rows of block on the right. You keep doing this one side at a time until all the blocks are gone. You will find that gravity has placed your boiler on the basement floor at the end of this exercise. Amazing stuff that gravity thing.
Or you can call a scrap removal company and let them do all the heavy lifting.
Re: Possible boiler leak
Sure looks like it has been leaking between the sections for a while, unless you can find something higher up that is leaking on it.
Re: Mish Mosh.Trap...
It looks like a nasty public bathroom somewhere.
Don't ask questions. Just don't.
Re: Near-pipe dope identification help on 222k BTU Utica PEG-E Boiler
The amount of contamination you going to get into a boiler system from the pipe dope used for a few fittings or valves is probably negligible. I would not stress over it.
The pipe dope in the picture looks like some Teflon based product.
Re: Replacement for 8124 a 1007
There is a little wiring trick that you can use:
I remember reading an article in Fuel Oil News a few decades back that gave specific instructions on how to make a L8124A control on an oil burner with a tankless coil, into a cold start control at low cost to you. That should be done when the plumber disconnects the tankless coil and installs a stand alone electric or gas water heater. Here is the way to do it.
Remove the Blue wire from the B terminal on the LO limit of the control and you will make that L8124A into a cold start boiler control. The required high Limit is still in control of the burner circuit. Back then the control had a stab terminal, so the article mentioned that you need to put a wire nut on the blue wire that you removed. Today's control has an insulated spade connector, so all you need to do is remove it and you are done.
The circulator is still connected thru that LO limit control so you will want to set that LO setting as low as you can get it.
If you want to go a step further, you can just remove the R and the W wires from the LO limit stab terminals and wire nut them together. Then you can leave the blue wire connected. That red and white wire will connect the relay contacts 1K2 directly to the C1 terminal so the LO limit reverse contacts will not keep the circulator from operating. Leaving the blue wire connected to B is just a safe place to keep it since there will be power on it whenever the burner circuit is powered.