Best Of
Re: Single pipe radiator
Sorry, but the only way to fix something this bodged is to unbodge it. 😉
Re: Observations on my old, rotted out wet return.
venting the main extensions just gives the steam more opportunity to find a pocket of water and hammer. there isn't a great reason to do it unless a vent at the end of the main will be neglected or in an inaccessible location.
there's really no reason to use black iron for any part of the system that won't see steam. dry returns that can't vent and let steam in would be fine in copper too. the black iron is just to conduct less heat and keep the steam hotter and not expand and contract with steam temps as much. of course you still need to allow for movement with expansion in either material.

Re: The "equalizer" is mis-named. It does nothing to equalize anything.
I guess my point was what was your point ? Sure the equalizer looks like the handle on a beer stein, so ?
Formally it was called a "Bleeder" and was (is) relevant to some systems. The LAoSHR describes it and it sounded reasonable to me.
Re: The "equalizer" is mis-named. It does nothing to equalize anything.
"The equalizer is like a hollow handle on a beer stein—completely unrelated to the level of beer in the glass. I stole this observation from Henry Gifford."
The problem I have with this example is the fire is only under the boiler, not the handle.
The earth's atmosphere is a huge equalizer but you can measure different atmospheric pressures in different places. And how far away is the Sun ?
Re: System 2000, nearly double the cost of Weil McLain, is it worth it?
I have no problem if people choose to buy premium products for premium prices. But the potential installer’s blatant dishonesty about savings is a bad look.
Re: grohe smart " stupid box"
This isn't a problem exclusive to Symmons. However. Symmons shower valves are extremely reliable and repair better than any other I have seen. The spout drip on a Symmons is a repair that takes well with a high success rate. Other shower valves…not as much.

Re: The "equalizer" is mis-named. It does nothing to equalize anything.
I would use 45s if possible. Try to avoid 90s above the water line. Below the water line anything goes.
Re: New Build
The first step is a heat load calculation for the various buildings/ rooms. Then choices like heat emitters, boilers, tube size come into play. Step two is the design of the system based on the loads.
You can try a load calc yourself, many wholesalers do them as well as reps or the radiant tube manufacturers directly.
Them Uponor design manual would be a good first read. It takes you through the steps.

Re: The "equalizer" is mis-named. It does nothing to equalize anything.
@ethicalpaul
time to buy more glass pipe and show us right or wrong
