Best Of
Re: need advice on scary steam boiler - no water in sight glass, running high pressure
Probably the gauge glass is clogged at the bottom and not displaying the true water level. Or the valve is shut because the glass was leaking, it looks incredibly bad.
But because of that you don't know the water level and you should be scared.
Forget leveling the radiators, that doesn't do anything anyway. If it were my house I would shut it down until I could get it serviced by a professional.
I like homeowners to know how their systems work and even to be able to do some simple maintenance on them, but this boiler is too scary to mess with.
That radiator has an air relief vent of a hot water system on it I think. Inappropriate for steam.
Re: Converting from oil to gas Eastern PA
Please… before you spend close to a grand on each "new modern window" (if you're spending less that that, you aren't getting a product as good as what's there), listen to @Hap_Hazzard and make sure you are fixing a problem. Those double hungs, with a small amount of work, can be made quite tight, and replacing the outside storm sashes (I think that's what I'm seeing?) (which, I agree, are a first class pain) with quality interior storm windows (I use this outfit:
Interior Storm Windows For Older Homes, Churches & Buildings
but there are others) will do the job — and last.
Re: Converting from oil to gas Eastern PA
There's not much you can do about the lack of insulation in your walls without spending a lot of money and often not getting the results you hoped for, but fixing drafts can do a lot to lower heating costs and improving comfort. But, to fix 'em, first you gotta find 'em. I have a low-cost, low-tech method for doing this.
Close all your windows and outside doors, get some insense sticks, light one and walk around the house trying to detect air currents. You don't need to do this in the winter. You can wait until it's warm enough to do whatever work you might need to do on the outside. For best results, do it when no one else it walking around the house disturbing the air. Patience is key. If you try to hurry, it's easy to get frustrated and confused.
When you detect moving air, keep moving towards the source where the air is either coming into the house or exiting, so be aware of which way the wind is blowing outside. Since it's usually easier to find where air is leaking into the house, you may need to repeat the processs over several days where the prevailing wind direction is different.
When you locate the source, you just need to figure out how to address it. Sometimes it's just a matter of some caulking; sometimes you need to replace or install some weather stripping; sometimes you need a new window or door. Do the easy/cheap stuff first, then prioritize what's left.
Re: Observations on my old, rotted out wet return.
But we're only discussing dry returns on one-pipe systems here.
Re: Near boiler piping
I think you should post pictures along with some of the comments you make. The lowest horizontal return pipe is the one I marked in red in this picture, so without pictures of what you are talking about, that is the pipe we are envisioning when you say "lowest point horizontally.".
Re: Why would my pressure relief drip leg leak a little?
- Why are you operating at such a high pressure? I see no reason or benefit of running so high.
- The pressure relief valve is not installed correctly. It is installed horizontally and should be installed vertically. I'll bet some rust/debris has made it its way into the valve and it isn't sealing properly.
Re: ? actual difference between hot water heaters from supplyhouses and big box stores
Generally, the consumer stores specify a cheaper price from the manufacturer. The manufacturer often cuts back here and there to grant that price. You'll see an exclusive "HD" model number and maybe a plastic drain valve, a single anode, perhaps a less costly control.
Most obvious of this were Delta faucets. The Home Depot line was Chinese junk: Plastic spigots, plastic handles. The supply houses carried a higher line that was US-made plated brass at three times the price. Now it seems they are all pot-metal or plastic Chinese junk.
We agree with Intplm that Bradford White is our go-to for water heaters. They're also pretty costly. The gas ones we install usually see 12-15 years, but that's with very good water quality. We only buy from local supply houses. We call and the tank is usually delivered in an hour.
Re: Weil-McLain QB-180; was it really time?
> You know that entire burner set-up isn't brand new. Sure hope they didn't charge you for a brand new, out of the box, burner.
Agreed. It looks like a re-used burner with some new parts slapped on it. If you look carefully it's pretty beat up.
Re: New vaporstat
probably the vaporstat and its calibration. that design is kind of notorious for cutting out then never cutting in again intermittently if you have the main set too low on the non mercury switch version.
