Best Of
Re: Main vents on Steam system
In your situation, @RTW , it really doesn't make much difference whether the vents on the steam mains are at the far ends beyond the last radiator or back at the boiler before they drop individually to a wet return/boiler inlet. In fact, from the perspective of the air and the steam arriving at a radiator it makes no difference at all. The only practical difference is that with the vents at the boiler, that whole section of line from the last radiator to the boiler gets steam, whereas when the vents are at the far end, it wouldn't.
And note. VERY CAREFULLY. The above applies when that "dry return" is directly connected to the steam main — no traps or whatnot. If the dry return is a true dry return, which is only found in two pipe systems, the comment above does NOT apply.
Re: Co-op in Brooklyn looking for steam consultant, 120 unit, single pipe, 1950s building
Can't go wrong with any of these.
Re: Zone Valve malfunction?
I would disconnect and mark the wires to the zone valve to eliminate an electrical issue and see what happens
Re: Boiler Header?
Guess what circulators are made of…. A little bit of iron in a closed loop system is of zero consequence and absolutely does not require filtration or magnetic "concentrators".
GroundUp
Re: Main vents on Steam system
At the end of the main after the last radiator take off if you have wet returns. If the steam and condensate come back to the boiler above the water line they can go near the boiler before the drop.
Re: What happened to Rems Tools(USA)
Hi, I use REMS for bending and tube expansion. A neat thing about the long bends you get is that the water doesn't know it's changing direction with bends over five pipe diameters, so no real turbulance or friction loss. This helps prevent erosion and can even allow you to use smaller pipe in some cases. Good way to go.
Yours, Larry
Re: New tank, single top line, do i need a shutoff?
Why are you against have a 2 pipe system with the return oil pipe at the top in the dual tapping?
leonz
Re: New tank, single top line, do i need a shutoff?
I don't think compression fittings are allowed, either.
ratio
Re: New tank, single top line, do i need a shutoff?
The tank should sit on a concrete pad , The moisture from the bare ground will rot out the bottom of the tank. Leaves that collect under the tank will do the same. You want to protect the outside from rusting . Rustoleum any scratches that end up in the paint .
Use the bottom tap rather then the top .. Top feed tanks will collect water below the dip tube . The layer between oil and water an algae will grow . The algae feeds off the oil and poops out "Sluge" . The kicker is the algae can't digest the sulfur in the oil and the sludge is a sulfuric acid in base . Probably the reason for the new tank…..The Roth tank has a plastic liner to protect the steel . The Roth will build up sludge too . You have to keep a Roth tank treated to prevent oil flow problems..
Pitch the tank 1/4" down to the valve to drain off any collected water in the tank . Go to HomeDepot and have them cut and thread two sets of 1.25" nipples for the legs with a 1" difference to achieve the 1/4" pitch . And while you are on that isle pick up 4 x1.25" flanges for the legs foot… You say your tank sits 2' lower than the burner ? Now is time to bring up the oil level …
Replace the oil line…. Run a new contained oil line . Copper tubing with a plastic cover. This is a must have for the crawl space oil line run. Trust me on this one , every oil guy here would have stories ..
A fireomatic is required for parts with gaskets like filters, pumps and tiger loops …
As stated above , run the oil line with downward pitch into the house. Any water with the pitch of the tank and the oil line will end up down stream inside the house past the freeze zone ..Inside add the fireomatic valve and service filter ..
New tank new oil…
Hope this helps
Big Ed_4