Best Of
Re: Steam kettle trap
Might not be a bad idea to replace the bucket trap with an F&T. Bucket traps don't vent air that well, and if the air can't get out of the kettle, the steam can't get in.
Re: I get all the weird ones...
Since we're just throwing things out there. How about a 50 ft long entrance tunnel with doors at both ends. Only one door open at a time. Overhead IR heaters in the tunnel.
HVACNUT
Frozen EVAP coil
4 ton Trane RTU. I replaced the compressor, TXV, drier few weeks ago. Performed pressure test and pulled good vacuum. Charged per the unit tag. Unit ran fine.
Yesterday service call- evap coil frozen. Thawed it overnight. It's cooling. R-410a.
110/262. My sub cooling is 12.5F. I have 20F across the EVAP coil. 54F discharge air into the space. Clean filter and good airflow. Only thing that concerns me is the low side pressure. My EVAP coil temp is 36F. I'm afraid it will freeze up again. But I'm reluctant to add gas as I charged the exact amount. I've checked the setpoints and schedule on the thermostat and it looks good.
Any idea?
Garrett, Georgia.
Re: Need some advice for a vintage Peerless radiator valve hookup
5th pic from the top is the radiator leg off the floor like it looks like it is or is that an optical illusion?
Looks like the pipe is holding the radiator up in the air,
Re: Need some advice for a vintage Peerless radiator valve hookup
Is this first floor or second floor? Shouldn't make any difference if it was gutted. What he should have done was bought the fittings and screw them into the radiator while it was on site and got a center -center measurement. 2d best would be to put the supply and return a little farther apart…to close and you end up with what you got. If there is a joist in the way you make the supply and return farther apart
Re: Oversized overtall chimney?
If your primary concern is cold air infiltration, then seal the upper envelope and reduce stack losses by installing a barometric damper so it's not exhausting at standby. The Neutral Pressure Plane follows the leaks. If it's high on the first floor or higher, you really don't have an upper seal and your house is just one big chimney. Put a cork in it then provide some relief as low as possible below the NPP to move it downwards and thus move the infiltration to the basement- not living space.
A high mass boiler is going to have some stack losses at standby, but you can minimize those losses with a baro. and an interlocked vent damper with a spill switch on the baro.
If your boiler was sized properly for the EDR and you down-fire the boiler, you are shooting yourself in the foot.
Re: Oil furnace rumble and smoke
A Beckett that is operating properly does not "Rumble" or "Make Smoke". What is happening is you have a burner that needs professional attention. Do Not operate it any more because all that smoke is making the repairs needed more complicated.
Do you have the recommended annual maintenance for your oil burner heating system? It may be a good time to start on an annual maintenance program with a qualified professional.
Re: Oil furnace rumble and smoke
you need an oil burner tech. could be something is plugged, could be something is out of adjustment and it just barely worked and different weather or something pushed it to the point where it doesn't work now.
mattmia2
Re: Oversized overtall chimney?
WAIT a second here. Right near the end of @dandub1960 's 11:04 comment above I read "distribution system is two pipe stream" .
That's fine, but makes all the comments above about mod/cons and so on quite irrelevant.
Now. Let's get back to some basics. Our OP's complaint appears to be that the house is draughty. Quite possible, given the age and the mention of metal framed windows — which were junk when they were installed and haven't improved with time.
There seems to be an impression that the problem is the oversize chimney. That probably isn't helping much, but is unlikely to be the major problem.
Assuming it is a significant problem, though, the only approach which will do much to address that problem is to restrict the chimney itself. Since there is a draught hood on the boiler, messing with the boiler air supply isn't going to address the problem, unless the boiler and chimney were placed in a sealed room. Difficult to do, but not impossible. Then you could add an outdoor air supply to that otherwise sealed room and let it go.
A cheaper approach will be to insert an appropriate sized liner in the flue, connected to the boiler draught hood, and seal between that and the flue (airtight seal at the bottom, screened at the top , or alternatively fill between the liner and the existing flue. Which I don't really recommend…
