Best Of
Re: Navien combi
typically the boiler is filled and little if any water gets added
If you have water that is way out if the spec that Navian suggests,
fill the boiler thru one of these
I also like to add a conditioner to the filtered water
I would not use softened water to fill the boiler!
hot_rod
Re: Steam device to be identified
I’m with Steamhead: boiler-return trap. Do you have photos of a radiator? Close-up of the supply and return sides would be helpful. And welcome!
Re: Steam device to be identified
it is all the same yet all different. Everything is the same controls we have on US boilers but it is all a different design and manufacturer. It looks like the low water cutout is a Mcdonnell Miller low water cut out that we use in the US.
Unless there is something special about European boilers that can separate the steam and water, the near boiler piping is very wrong.
I assume that this is a 2 pipe steam system, each radiator has a supply and a return, not a single pipe where steam enters and condensate exits through the same pipe at the bottom of the radiator.
I think that is some sort of "boiler return trap". If the pressure in the steam supply main gets too high in comparison to the return for the water to be able to return to the boiler, it allows some steam in to the condensate return to equalize the pressure and allow the water to return to the boiler.
You would have to find the European @DanHolohan to figure out exactly what that device is.
Re: Why purge valve above boiler? Pumping Away.
you turn off the “service” valve , open the fast fill function
So water can only go around thru the system, it pushes air as it goes, up through the boiler to the “drain” valve purge point
With this method everything including the boiler gets purged from one point
hot_rod
Re: original circulator sized too small?
If a repipe is in your future, move the circ to the supply side, just after a Discal with the expansion tank connected.
hot_rod
Re: Debate me Bro-3/8 inch pex 150 foot lenths AOK for high delta T radiant
All of my radiant projects that are underfloor are done in 3/8" pex. So much easier to run compared to 1/2".
Yes, your loop lengths will be shorter compared to 1/2" but your delta T should still be 10-15 degrees for the comfort factor and maintaining an even surface temp of the floors.
The average loop lengths from the manufacturers are based upon standard, safe circ selection without having to go to crazy high head circs.
But if you do the math, you can go past the recommended lengths, in my own house, I installed 3/8" underfloor (with and without plates) with 400' loops and a standard circ.
I used 1/2" for my slab for the same reasons, I wanted longer runs and less connections to a manifold and less actuators. I wanted to make sure each room I was installing tube in that it had one loop instead of two (easier all around)
Dave H_2
Re: Repiping monoflo returns, how does this look?
MonoFlo® systems are not a purgeable design. Each radiator must be vented individually. Purging implies that you are forcing water thru a loop to entrain the air and cause it to exit at a valve near the lower end of a system. This only works on a series loop. When there are tee fittings in the mix (like MonoFlo® tees) the water has two paths, and the water will take the path of least resistance, and the other path will stay air bound.
Can you explain to us what you are attempting to accomplish?
Re: Wirsbo Manifold Pin Valves
I can't believe they are not all broken yet.Agreed.
I had a couple where the plastic frame/shuttle inside broke.
Many where the end switch got carboned up and started chattering my relays ( replacing the internal end-switch on a bunch ).
Finally got tired of doing the switches and started swapping out to thermals.
Thermals are soooo slow, but they just quietly do their job.
FYI, the adapter to make a thermal actuator fit those valves doesnt come with the thermal.. it's a different ring.




