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Re: How to drain baseboard heating system on very old boiler (pics)
Things don't look that bad to me. I would replace the air vent on the air scoop. The air scoop is fine its just rusty from the vent leaking. You have purge and balance valves for each zone thats how you get rid of the air. Below the zone valve on the smaller zone you have a ball valve and a boiler drain. To bleed you close the ball valve put a hose on the drain valve and open it and feed water into the system. Purge till the bubbles stop , then do the other zone.Glad you guys don't think it looks too bad! I get the idea for purging the smaller zone, but how would I purge the larger zone which doesn't have a drain or shut off valve after the zone valve? If drain it at the lower valve I cant feed it water to purge. As far as moving the expansions tank, would I move the air scoop with it, or leave that where it is? Can I hang the expansion tank just passed the pressure regulator and leave the rest as is?
Move the expansion tank (or put a new one in) and tee it into the boiler feed water line between the feed valve and the boiler. The water feed line and the expansion tank have to be connected to each other and to the boiler on the same side of the circulator. In you case leave the circ as is and move the expansion tank You have a purge and balance valve above the boiler for the other zone
Re: Old NYC radiator help
New York City apartment buildings are pretty much a hopeless cause. There's not much you can do. Your radiators are part of the system and you have zero access to 99.9% of the system. Best thing you can do is to make a small hole in the floor. This way when it leaks water, it will cause damage to the apartment below. Maybe then, the powers that be, will take some action. By the way, you didn't hear this from me. And of course, you can always stand next to the radiator when the hot water comes spraying out. Will allow you to get lawyers involved. There are a lot of good personal injury lawyers in New York. Just for the sake of clarity and full transparency, everything in this post is a joke and said in jest. Bottom line, it's probably a hopeless cause.
Re: Hoffman 2 Vents?
Wow, I leave town and…..boom! Ok, I’m converting to coal! So there! 🤪
Re: Thread sealant cure
Yes you are and you know it.EBEBRATT-Ed said:I really hate pipe dope questions. There are no answers except making sure the dope you use is compatible with the type of pipe and the contents of the pipe. Every poster has a method that works for them. Why discuss the endless question of what dope to use, how to apply it, weather to use it with Teflon tape or is Blue Monster tape better?. Do you dope the fitting before taping with teflon or do you use the dope first or do you dope tape then dope? What if I use dope with no tape? How about doping the inside of the female threads? etc etc etc? It's like installing a boiler. We always say the installer is more important than the boiler. Well, the installer is more important than the dope....unless the installer is the dope. My Sunday rant. Not going to respond to dopey questions anymore
ChrisJ
2
Re: Fitting to use angle air vents?
How do street elbows reduce the venting capacity? The vent's orifice is much much smaller than 1/8"Can you do a video on this topic Paul, I'm sure it has something to do with equivalent length of the fitting. https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/resistance-equivalent-length-d_192.html
A 1/4" 90° elbow is almost equal to 2.5 feet of strait pipe. So a 1/8" 90° elbow must be at least equal to 2 feet of strait pipe. Now that has to mean something to somebody somewhere.
You will need stop watch and your steam boiler and a box of street 90° elbows. First: time how long it takes to get steam to a given radiator and stop venting. Next put 2 elbows on one of your vents and time how long it takes to get steam to stop the same vent. If there is a immeasurable time difference, then you will have proven that there is no difference on small orifice vents.
I hope you don't think Im serious
Corroded drain valve and pinhole in return pipe
I have a 1987 Burnham 140k btu, 1 pipe system in Brooklyn NY,house built in 1but,
1st question my boiler drain valve has corroded so this year I use the return line drain out to remove water. After removing 2 gal of water which was rusty. So I did it a again with my hose under the water steam started to come out with very rusty water. IS THiS OK TO DO?
2) I had a pin hole leak in the return line today, I patched it with epoxy and screw. Then wrapped a 3inch wide bicycle tube around it and put epoxy on it 2 times. I put 3 clamps on it one over the screw(with less pressure than the clamps at the ends). Do you think this will last until the spring when I can get a plumber to change out the pipe? Can I send you a pic?pipe is over 30 feet long stairs have been built over it wall built over it. How would it be replaced?
3) can I use a plastic drain out valve, to replace my corroded one? I think it came from my old water tank.
aced
3) can I use a plastic drain out valve, to replace my corroded one? I think it came from my old water tank.
Re: Anyone know about this service tech move?
@hot_rod Always two sides to a story, LOL. Facts in quantum superposition, if that isn't the spirit of the times. A reach? It's just my opinion, speculation, about what real investigative work would find. I'm not interested in airing loads of common state of the industry dirt on a public forum. Rest assured your sensibilities would be injured. I just wanted to know if the bugs thing is common. It seems it's not and that's good.The bugs aren't common, but if you ever find a 4" crescent wrench near a furnace or boiler it is mine and I want it back 😂
GGross
1
Re: How Do I Connect This Wire?
@EdTheHeaterMan I think you're in the 'how do I connect this wire" hall of fame.
