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Re: Hydrolevel VXT
So I'm back at this as the heating season starts. I just called Hydrolevel and they basically told me to **** off and buy a new one. He said it was probably a power surge! It was a 2 year warranty from date of mfr (which is an odd way of doing it not accounting for time on shelf), so my failure date last winter was already out of warranty. He even acted surprised that there was a replacement valve unit with solenoid for sale at Supplyhouse. Oh, and he basically called HH a bunch of whiney ****.
So that part is $125, a new is $250. The electronics appear sound and this seems a solenoid or valve failure, but who knows? If I want to stay away from them entirely, what's the best competing product? I do not live there, so constantly monitoring level myself is not a good plan!
@Gordo
Are you sure you're not exaggerating a bit?
ChrisJ
1
Re: The last word about c-wire thermostats and wiring diagrams.
I know its not the prettiest but this is how I set up a 24v transformer to give me the C wire for the other boiler I installed last year. I'll probably end up doing the same thing on the boiler I just did because I want to install the wifi thermostat here also.Dude, that gas pipe!?
Re: The last word about c-wire thermostats and wiring diagrams.
Ya, John, but you still have to use 3 wires to the thermostat, I want to get it down to 1 wire. Work on that. I've been working on that for years, but I think I'm close. After all, a wire saved is a wire earned. Benny told me that.1 wire is going to be tough but I think it's worth shooting for. I'll get back to you shortly.
JohnNY
1
Make your own steam trap...
Use the entire bottom of the radiator for the seal!! Ha ha ..No the radiator never DID heat!! Mad Dog 
Re: Make your own steam trap...
Another person who needs to read one of Dans book!
@Mad Dog_2 - Where did you find that gem? Looks like it’s been a while since any attention has been paid to radiator or floor.
@Mad Dog_2 - Where did you find that gem? Looks like it’s been a while since any attention has been paid to radiator or floor.
PC7060
1
Help adding extra baseboard
Hello,
I added 22' of slantfin baseboard to an added room. There were 4 existing cast iron baseboards on the zone that i tapped into. This is a single loop system with monoflo's on the supply side and regular Tee's on the return side. I extended the 1" main loop to follow the path of the new baseboards that I just added.
After turning the heat on for about 30 minutes, all of the old baseboards heated up to about 120 degrees, but the new baseboard only reached about 85, and that was only at the supply side. The return side was around 75 as it barely got warm. Where did I go wrong with this and what do i need to do to fix it? A few notes that I can think of.
1 - All of the existing monoflos were 1"to1"to1/2", so I used the same for the new one. Should I have used a 3/4"? I'm thinking that possibly I'm not getting enough flow on the 1/2" feed?
2 - I put the bleeder on the supply side where the monoflo comes in, would moving it to the return side fix this problem? Note: I checked all existing in the house, and it seems like most of the slantfin baseboards have bleeders on the supply end and the cast irons (all but 1) have the bleeders on the return ends. I've read that this was incorrect, but it has been working for the last 65 years (assuming it's all original to the house)
3 - I attached a quick diagram to show the set up, the red is the existing and the blue is the new
I'd appreciate any input, thanks!
I added 22' of slantfin baseboard to an added room. There were 4 existing cast iron baseboards on the zone that i tapped into. This is a single loop system with monoflo's on the supply side and regular Tee's on the return side. I extended the 1" main loop to follow the path of the new baseboards that I just added.
After turning the heat on for about 30 minutes, all of the old baseboards heated up to about 120 degrees, but the new baseboard only reached about 85, and that was only at the supply side. The return side was around 75 as it barely got warm. Where did I go wrong with this and what do i need to do to fix it? A few notes that I can think of.
1 - All of the existing monoflos were 1"to1"to1/2", so I used the same for the new one. Should I have used a 3/4"? I'm thinking that possibly I'm not getting enough flow on the 1/2" feed?
2 - I put the bleeder on the supply side where the monoflo comes in, would moving it to the return side fix this problem? Note: I checked all existing in the house, and it seems like most of the slantfin baseboards have bleeders on the supply end and the cast irons (all but 1) have the bleeders on the return ends. I've read that this was incorrect, but it has been working for the last 65 years (assuming it's all original to the house)
3 - I attached a quick diagram to show the set up, the red is the existing and the blue is the new
I'd appreciate any input, thanks!
Fus1982
1
Re: Which pumps do you stock on your service trucks?
I guess that is because they use different water in Canada
Re: 3/4 copper to male slip adapter
realliveplumber said:Someday, someone is going to be scratching their head over that one. It will probably be posted here. "What the heck is this fitting I need, I cant find it no where"
Yes, in my world the drawings package to fabricate and document would be much more expensive than a thread 12” brass pipe! 
PC7060
1
Re: 3/4 copper to male slip adapter
Someday, someone is going to be scratching their head over that one.
It will probably be posted here. "What the heck is this fitting I need, I cant find it no where"
It will probably be posted here. "What the heck is this fitting I need, I cant find it no where"
3/4 copper to male slip adapter
Working on the solar tank today. I needed a 10” brass nipple to make a clean connection
I drilled out a 3/4 adapter with a 7/8 holesaw, soldered it onto a piece of L copper
1-1/8 box fit perfectly
I drilled out a 3/4 adapter with a 7/8 holesaw, soldered it onto a piece of L copper
1-1/8 box fit perfectly
hot_rod
4