Best Of
Re: Washing machine drain solution
Being full dimensions and I assume old growth lumber it "Probably" wont fail.
The plumbing should have been rerouted!
pecmsg
Re: Increasing radiator heat
Your problem is down stairs… Are you down to the lobster pot on the stove ?
This is the longest freeze that I could remember and I worked them all … Hang in there….
Big Ed_4
Re: How a Hotel full of people get sick..
The young lady at the desk was receptive and replied : "I'm surprised because we just had a full mechanical inspection by Corporate." 'Well, they missed this....very serious oversight. ' Mad Dog
Re: Anyway to quiet the whistling radiator vents when the system turns on?
Inadequate main vents mean all air has to escape through rads (you checked that).
Dirty boiler water could be causing pressure surges in the system as bubbles break the oil film, contributing to whistles. Skim your boiler water. Wet steam is no good either.
On cold days when the system is firing a lot, hot pipes and rads from the last cycle allow initial steam velocity to be higher as it isn't heating cold iron as it leaves the boiler. This pushes harder on the air during startup.
You could cut a small piece of porous sponge and place over vent orifice on every rad, to act as a muffler. This increases pressure drop and could affect system peformance. I was putting a sock over an annoying vent that I eventually replaced.
Re: near toilet floor constantly wet
36% at 70F is a dew point of around 40, so even really cold water probably wouldn't cause much if any condensation.
I'd take pictures with my phone my self. I don't like reaching under toilets blindly. 😉
ChrisJ
Re: Favorite Primary Control
It was a rule on the job site anyone that trips the Mercoid on the way out buys the first round :) All I can remember it took a long time to reset ..
Big Ed_4
Re: Cleaning Oatey No. 95 from inside of pipes?
i like using npt valves and adapters so if i burn something up it is a $1 adapter and not a $30 valve.
the idea of the tinning flux is that it tins the surfaces before the flux burns out even if you overheat the joint. i'v used both tinning and non-tinning flux with lead free solder and have no strong preference either way but have found that sometimes the solder particles in the tinning flux seem to sort of corrode and it gets kind of funky. much more important is clean both surfaces and flux both surfaces, heat the more massive part, move the torch around or away if you are applying solder for a while.
i see people doing electronic soldering on videos where they are doing mechanical stuff and they are doing everything wrong, it is painful to watch. dipping the iron in the flux, putting solder on the iron and trying to melt it in to the joint…
what do you mean about a wet rag being bad for the solder? most use a rag to smooth out the molten solder and sometimes to quench the joint
mattmia2