Best Of
Re: The "equalizer" is mis-named. It does nothing to equalize anything.
Perhaps that's where the name equalizer comes from.
It equalizes the negative pressure when the pipe breaks so it "vents" the loop and stops it from siphoning from the boiler. It never had anything to do with equalizing positive pressure when the system is intact and never actually does anything to a properly functioning system.
I've brought that up a few times, but didn't think the name had anything to do with it until now.
ChrisJ
Re: New Boiler Overfilling After Warm Weather
I have seen a steam boiler not fire because of overfill, more than once.
The water pressure would shut the pressuretrol off. Drain down and it fires up.
If your auto fill valve or manual by pass valve is seeping water by, you would overfill.
But that would give you constant overfill, even while heating.
JUGHNE
Re: Packing Heat
@Larry Weingarten : "Yup, 80%! If you could get anywhere near that number, any flavor of solar works and is easier to accomplish."
I agree very much with the general sentiment. I'll add that a well-insulated house is just more pleasant: more comfortable, quieter and less dusty. I like to say that an ounce of insulation is worth a pound of hydronics when it comes to comfort.
But I have to disagree with the statement that "any flavor of solar works." There are lots and lots of failed attempts at passive solar and heat storage out there, what Joe Lstiburek calls "mass and glass." Sometimes they work, a lot of times they don't, and when they do work it's mostly because of the conditions at the site, particularly the climate.
Installing one of these systems isn't like putting a deck on a house, where you just have to follow some basic guidelines and it's going to work, and the design involves mostly deciding whether you like deep and narrow better than wide and shallow, or whether a square works best for how you see yourself using it. I'd say it's more like building a hydro-electric generator on your property. Before you even begin, you have to ask, do you have water flow? How much? And how much does it drop? And do you have the right to build on it? Because if you don't have those things, there's no way to make up for the lack.
This is what's behind the questions I asked three posts ago. Without knowing specifics of the energy use in this house, in this climate, it's impossible to do any of the calculations that would tell if some sort of heat storage would make sense at all.
Re: Packing Heat
Fair enough. Have you calculated your current heating loads? Either through modeling or the process outlined in this article?
Do you know your heating and cooling design temperatures, and heating and cooling degree-days?
Have you looked up average monthly insolation for your location?
Without that information you can't even begin to look at a design.
Re: My pressure gauge is between 20 to 25 right at the marker. Is that too high!
Yes, you are referring to the fuel line. Everything you stated MIGHT occur.
Do not confuse the fuel line with the pressure in the boiler. Two completely different issues. Not at all related.
The pressure varies in the boiler depending on the temperature of the boiler. When it heats up to 180°F, the pressure is going to climb. When it cools down to 75°F, the pressure is going to fall. The expansion tank keeps this rise and fall to a reasonable level………..maybe 8 psi up and down unless it has failed and is full of water.
If it stays below 25 psi you have NO ISSUE and do not need ANY SERVICE at the present time.
You can connect the hose to the return of your choice. They both end up in the same place.
If the boiler is at 23 psi………….bring it down to 18 psi just for safety when you are sleeping………………you DO NOT want to suffer the result of it climbing to 30 psi. You only need to remove about one pint of water for this drop in pressure.
LRCCBJ
Re: My pressure gauge is between 20 to 25 right at the marker. Is that too high!
You're welcome.
Just understand that this is not a permanent fix. When the boiler cools off, the feeder is going to bring it back to 15 psi………..then, when it fires up again and heats the water back to 180………….you might find yourself in the exact same situation with the pressure very close to 30 psi. There is no issue at 28 psi……….you can run it that way forever………….but if it gets to 30, you'll have water spraying all over the boiler and the room when the pressure release valve opens………..and sadly, they never close fully after this occurs…………must be replaced.
LRCCBJ
Re: My pressure gauge is between 20 to 25 right at the marker. Is that too high!
BTW, the gauge shows the boiler at 23 psi.
This is a non-issue if it stays near that level.
LRCCBJ
Re: Wirsbo return manifold leak
Oh wow, will do! I didn't see this but actually happened to purchase (EDIT: thanks to hot_rods general suggestions previously) both a galvanized 1-1/4" plug and that exact tape. So I will definitely try this in the morning when I have light.
As an aside, wow is it hard to find a 1-1/4" sized anything that's graded for hot water.
Cheers and thank you again.
