Best Of
Re: Lochinvar boiler isn’t keeping up
this indicates the boiler pump turns off on dhw call
If it is in zone mode a primary loop pump would also run
hot_rod
Re: Argo AR826 schematic?
May be time to replace the relay with a newer model that has the functions you want? Caleffi has great relay boxes👍🏻
I’m looking for a date on that Argo? Its possible that transformer was built 19th week of 1993 based on one number printed on it?
hot_rod
Re: Argo AR826 schematic?
Yes a thermostat or a Zone Valve end switch could be in parallel with the X-X Isolated Switch to control the boiler, however that just lets the Heat Zone circulator run forever, except for the DHW call.
I would think the the "Aquastat" and the "24 VAC Zone Valve" terminals would be contact closure required inputs, energizing the appropriate relay to energize the appropriate circulator. With either 'input' activated it would close the X-X Isolated Switch to control the boiler.
However in this case the "24 VAC Zone Valve" terminals are not used so that theory may be incorrect since the Heat Zone circulator is apparently energized 100% of the time. Unless of course the intent of this AR826 is just to provide DHW priority and not actual zone heat control and the Heat Zone circulator should be switched by some other thermostaticly controlled device.
Like to reverse engineer this box, its pretty simple, probably never have the opportunity.
More pictures of the whole system may help.
Found this in the other thread posted above. Interesting the image states DO NOT USE for the "24 VAC Zone Valve" terminals.
109A_5
Re: Argo AR826 schematic?
I looked online and couldn't find anything on that relay.
I suspect it was to be used with zone valve where the t stat wires go to the valve and the end switch wire would go to "isolated end switch" Don't know if that is how it is hooked up.
Re: Installed a main vent and a radiator stopped heating
vapor systems are designed that way. it is very common to use steam pressure to lift condensate in ordinary 2 pipe commercial systems.
mattmia2
Re: Miller CMF2 80 Furnace
Other oil burner maintenance items are better left to a professional. Although many of the Mobil Home furnaces do not lend themselves to combustion analyzer probes because the exhaust pipe is in the negative pressure zone of the duct blower inlet. I have used RTV cement with a 1/4-20 bolt to seal the test hole in some cases where the test was needed to verify the heat exchanger was not compromised or I needed to use a vacuum to remove copious amounts of soot. Most times they are best left to the experienced eye of an oil burner expert. Nozzle replacement, oil filter change, and combustion head cleaning is usually all part of a standard "tune-up" from your oil dealer or oil burner pro.
Re: Peerless 63 Series... Discontinued???
@mattmia2 A pot type burner used kero or #1 oil and was gravity fed from a 275 no pump. It had a constant level valve, and the fire didn't go out. It was like a lantern with a wick almost. When the thermostat shut it down the constant level valve closed down but not off and kept an oil pilot. When the thermostat called for heat, it opened the constant level valve and the flame increased. Perfection Furnace were the ones I saw.
If it was Timken it was a different animal. They had a motor and it was a vertical rotary burner and fired straight up like a pot burner. The motor shaft spun and slung the oil out by centrifugal force.
Timkiens (and there were other vertical rotaries like torrid heat) were very efficient burners. Better than most gun burners at that time. They burned clean with a high Co2.
Re: The Loneliest Place, my new article for PHC News magazine.
I had some beauties in my time. Do I miss it? yes and NO. There is something challenging about it though.
- I stuffed an oil fired boiler full of wood and newspaper and lit it with a match when their LP tank for the gas pilot was empty. Pulled the flame scammer out to fake out the control till it lit main flame.
2. Primed an oil pump with orange juice when I had to get the heat on.
3. Stripped all the 1" blowdown pipe off 3 boilers from the MM 51s and 150s and coupled them all together to make a temp oil suction line to get a burner running out of a 55 gallon drum to keep a building from freezing. Their underground tank had got filled with water and melted snow.
4.Pumped out a burner that was in a pit with the water over the top of the burner. Dried things out, tossed the primary control and put a bunch of jumpers on the subbase to get a burner to fire.
Re: Mystery water leak - excess water take up problem
Whatever your are going to install will cost you the same $$$ pretty much. Toss another Independence in if you want.
That way you don't have to worry about the install. Any decent plumber should be able to cut and paste……………………………..you would think.
And if you install the same boiler and your controls, low water cut off, pressure control etc are ok you can just buy the CI replacement block and save some $$$
really sucks to have this happen in the winter with a boiler that young.
Unfortunately, that is Burnhams MO