Best Of
Re: Radiant Heat. Should I raise the temp?
Here is an example of a primary secondary, you want to have some straight section before and after the tees.
While that crossover does establish a boiler loop, I don't think you are getting hydraulic separation between the boiler pump and radiant pump.
If this is a one temperature system a small amount of repipe could get you a boiler loop, indirect as a parallel loop, and a secondary loop with the correct spacing.
The primary loop is defined as the one with the expansion tank connected, it could be the boiler loop, the radiant loop, even the indirect loop, depending on the piping.
hot_rod
Re: Small Delta-T hydronic system
@hot_rod yes it is that building, and no the load is nowhere near 80 BTU/SF although that would be attainable. As was discussed then, the load is 27 BTU/SF but you argued tooth and nail that it was impossible to attain with only 1200LF of tubing because raising the SWT into a high mass radiant floor while maintaining everything else the same would not raise the delta or the BTU output. I showed you two videos as explained above to explain why you were wrong and that raising the SWT absolutely 100% DOES raise the delta and therefore the BTU output, but instead of trying to have an intelligent conversation about it, you got defensive and called me names before leaving the group entirely rather than admitting that you were wrong. As you were told then and still stands, you are welcome to share all the charts and opinionated snippets that you wish but none of them supersede the mathematical equation of DT x GPM x 500 = BTU. I very clearly stated that the delta in the extreme above example would dwindle as the temps reach an equilibrium, but that does not negate the fact that your deflections and opinions do not supersede mathematics and facts. I tried to give you the benefit of the doubt that there was simply a reading comprehension issue on your end, but then you doubled down with the insults and went so far as to remove yourself from the group to avoid being wrong. The reason this is being brought up again, is because it looks as though you're trying to preach the same falsities here and I want to make sure the others know not to trust everything they read- even if it comes from somebody like the almighty Hot Rod.
GroundUp
Re: Toe Kick Space Heater
It’s probably air bound. Monoflo can be extremely difficult to purge air from.
Ironman
Re: Can you please critique this boiler setup that was installed in my house two wks ago
On a positive note, at least this customer got the premier residential boiler. I believe Peerless years ago took over the residential Smith Boiler division ( Smith Boiler decided to focus on commercial) and Smith's reputation always had standards and excellent quality
So installation aside, seems he got the best boiler, though others on this site are more qualified to opine
Regards,
RTW
RTW
Re: Oil guy couldn't fill my tank today
I wasn't replying to your comment in this post but to another responder who constantly gives wrong information..
Re: Oil guy couldn't fill my tank today
@leonz I'm sorry that your wrong and you had a bad experience with one oil company. Those are 275 gallon oil tanks. Virtually no one uses those petro hopper tanks for residential…NO ONE. They are a commercial grade tank. Not a residential oil tank.
Stick with your coal. When there's a coal question, chime in.
If you want to whine incorrectly about Hydrostats or how steel expansion tanks are great, just remind people you are a homeowner with no practical experience.
I starting to see why my buddy got frustrated with this site and stopped coming here.
Re: How do I correctly add water to boiler system?
It's really up to you about leaving the water fill valves open or closed. It seems every time we poll people on this question it is a 50% split open, or closed. Systems with glycol antifreeze are not connected to fill water at all, generally.
Some systems use a fill tank instead of a fill valve, so there are options.
It looks to be a bit of an oversize on that backflow device, typically we see a 1/2" valve used, but.
If the system is air-free, no leaks and you monitor it, then leave the fill valves closed.
Some folks choose to add a low water cutoff switch to add additional insurance should the boiler ever leak all the water out. A rare but possible chance. And another control is another fail point.
The white handled valve, a system bypass loop, this allows some of the water leaving the supply pipe out of the boiler to blend with the cooler return water. This helps keep the boiler temperature above 130° to prevent it from sweating or condensing.
Since all the piping is inside the home, any heat loss from all that piping is within the building envelop. With no insulation in the floor joists and an open stairway, much of the heat is going into the upper level anyways.
Un-insulated pipes may over-heat the area they occupy, but it is still better than heat going up the flue without adding anything to the home.
It looks like a nice clean professional installation, enjoy the hydronic heat.
hot_rod
Re: No power?
A pic from further back may help. It could have a low water safety switch that is causing a no power condition.
hot_rod
Re: Oil guy couldn't fill my tank today
Do you really need both 275 gallon tanks or can you get by with one?
What you could do is disconnect the tank farthest from the wall. Leave the fill and vent as is, (make sure the vent is clear) and plug the two tees with pipe plugs and add a vent whistle to the remaining tank.
Shut the valve that feeds oil to the burner from the tank near the wall and burn the outer tank down low so it can be removed. Then shut off the outer tank , disconnect and plug the burner line and remove that tank.
Re: Most reliable wallhung?
I kind of struggle with this question. There many factors that go into this equation.
Ease of working on internally is a big one for me.
Support- when u call tech support is it 30, 40 minutes or much more on hold to get assistance or even make a warranty claim.
Rep support - Our local wholesalers are all pretty good, but dont have the teeth the boiler reps can have when its a problem that is persistent and not on the installer or homeowner, so if you have a good rep thats another plus.
Local support - wholesaler well stocked with parts, basically all parts internally
Cost - I understand you get what you pay for but thats not the current thinking with manufacturing. It seems like they build as cheap as possible and ease of mass production and send it, deal with the fall out later. So I will pay a bit more for better. Most of my customers will too, but then when it has a failure in the first 2-3 months, they start getting pissy that they paid more for this… (GV90 rectifier issues)
Installation- we all know when properly piped, when controlled well, and when sized appropriately we get a lot of time from a good boiler. So that is a factor as well.
Tom_133