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Re: 1970's Block of Flats - Honeywell - Heating System
We built a 2 story duplex with identical floor plans. There was a thermostat in each room that operated electric radiant ceiling heat. There were no signs of where the electrical connections were in the building. Only the junction box in each room that the thermostat covered. Interesting heating system.
Here is an example: Ceiling Radiant Heating
Re: 1970's Block of Flats - Honeywell - Heating System
Follow the piping from the boiler room. Trace the piping until you cannot see it any longer. My thought, and from your description, it's a radiant floor heating system, or a warm air system.

Re: When to NOT use sharkbite? A question
I braze copper tubing that's inches away from dry lumber in homes, it's easy to avoid starting a fire when you make the right precautions. Low temperature soldering is easy in comparison.
If avoiding the risk of starting a fire is the main concern I would use compression fittings instead of shark bites. Just my opinion, I feel like it's a better way to go. I've seen too many homeowners have leaks when the piping isn't perfectly straight or when any stress is out on the connection. Yes, I know leaks can happen in those situations with all types of connections but as a professional I view shark bites as something to avoid. Like @Mad Dog_2 I try to do everything the best way possible. Even if it's not the easiest, fastest or cheapest way to do it.
Re: When to NOT use sharkbite? A question
I see lots of mention of copper fittings leaking but not one mention of a sharkbite leaking. Which is the easier repair?
Can't make everything bulletproof but you can make it accessible to some degree, if not fully.
I sweat stuff at my house, but I'm old school and a little proud in the challenge. I feel unless going against what the fitting is designed to do, than do what you want.
Re: When to NOT use sharkbite? A question
"Already, I am imagining myself worried as **** thinking about leaks and a blow out and a flooded basement. Do I need to be?"
As hard as it is to imagine, Sharks are allowed in many areas by code for buried installations!
I have used SBs as temps, and just as others have done, left several in place "just to see". I have about 4 in my basement right now at least 10 years - no leaks.
You won't get a blow out if you follow the instructions exactly, and that means first marking the depth and then making sure the pipe is inserted to that depth. If you ever get a leak, it will be a drip - I doubt a SB will blow off a pipe properly inserted. When I used them, I also deburred the cut and cleaned the pipe just as if I was going to sweat it to give the O-ring a nice smooth surface to seal against. If all your work is exposed and will remain so, then use the Bites if you don't have sweating skills.

Re: When to NOT use sharkbite? A question
Paul...my "Data" is in the tens of thousands of homes and commercial buildings I've worked in since 1985. Millions a liner feet of Copper sweat joints (installed since the 1950s) that's 75 yr old "empirical Data." I still see galvanized screw pipe on domestic water installed over 125 yrs ago still working...no.leaks..And then there's lead.
Your "datum" is based on what? Your basement laboratory & internet research? You need to crawl through some Plaster & Lathe suspended ceilings in NYC museums and Courthouses, St Patrick's Cathedral, Crawlspaces of NYC Housing projects & 1870s Gold Coast Mansions of the North Shore of Long Island.
Stay with your position that they are fast & require no skills..I'll concur, but Sharkbites & Propress outlasting traditional pipe, fittings and joining systems?? Nolo Contendre....Mad Dog
Re: When to NOT use sharkbite? A question
I have used shark bites professionally (Maintenance man) and personally in my home for years where they were visible and have never seen a leak. I have even used them on 3/4 pnuematic lines with 120 psi and they have been there for more than fifteen years. My own sweat work and paid professional sweat work have leaked due to improper heat or fit. They show up months and years later. Fire and skill must be considered before sweating. These days, because my employer paid for it, I use a propress.
I would use Sharkbites behind a wall, and in fact, I just advised my brother to do so in his 120 year old home.
Just make sure your pipe is cut square, no burrs, no dirt and is seated firmly in the fitting.
I would NOT pay a plumbing company to do a job and expect them to use Sharkbites.

Re: [Solved] Taco VT2218 Rattling Sound
I wanted to update y'all, it's been a minute.
So, I reached out to Taco with videos of the problem, and they didn't say much explicitly about the noise, but they agreed that I should warranty the pump through where I bought it (Zoro). Zoro accepted the return request. Before sending it out, I ordered a new pump from PexUniverse, which has a newer date code on it by a few months. Looks like it was built in 2025. Otherwise, it looks exactly the same.
This new pump is SO much better. It actually is "whisper quiet" as the box says. So I wasn't going crazy, the only possible explanation has to be bad bearings. I am really happy with it.
I boxed up the old pump and will include a note to hopefully help whoever at Taco is inspecting it understand why I returned it.
I really appreciate you explaining all this and even making diagrams! That's super cool. You are right that it's a bit silly to keep trying to make this system work with such an oversized boiler.. but honestly it's just been a fun challenge for me :P I am not feeling bad about the money spent thus far.
While waiting for the new pump, I decided to run the boiler with the gas valve at '5' and the pump running in Delta-T mode targeting a 20F delta. I also opened my (undersized) bypass completely. Other than the bearing noise, which is gone now with the new pump, there have been no issues with the rest of the system. No signs of cavitation or trapped air or condensing or kettling. It has been working great; all the rooms are heating up quickly and we are comfortable at home. So, while it's maybe not the most efficient or perfectly designed system, I think I'm just gonna call it good enough now lol. When the boiler eventually dies, I'll start over and do it right.
That said, I did buy the parts to install a full sized bypass. I also will be moving the city water fill valve to right above the expansion tank like the diagrams in the boiler's manual. I think that should help out.
I'll update this post when the pump dies. If I get 5 years out of it then I will be happy lol. I am interested to see how long it lasts.
Thanks everyone for all the support and time you spent troubleshooting with me!!
Re: [Solved] Taco VT2218 Rattling Sound
I'd be interest to hear what Taco support suggests about noise and warranty
Re: When to NOT use sharkbite? A question
Hi, I once had to sweat copper in a straw bale home. Took lots of precautions and all went well. Still, it was a bit nervous-making 😵💫
Yours, Larry