Best Of
Re: Lochinvar WB80 not lighting, many new parts already. SOLVED
" I have to admit to being confused by the schematic, it seems a lot of those paths are on the circuit board and I'm reluctant to fool with a $1000 board. "
Many folks are, so the best method of chasing out an electrical defect is abandoned for just guessing. And often that does not work out very well as your are sadly finding out.
You should not have to fool with the circuit board, just take voltage measurements at strategic points at the connector pins (back probing), however I am not convinced I'm looking at the correct wiring diagram for your unit, so making recommendations of connector pin designations is difficult from here.
As far as your Yellow arrow I believe that is a dual temperature sensor (a thermistor) where the Yellow wire is the common between the two sensors. The sensor could be bad, intermittent internal connection to its leads. An Ohmmeter may be used to test the sensor. Also the pin fitment of the connector pins may be poor so the pins in the connector do not touch the sensor pins correctly. Careful inspection may be needed. Also the crimps to the wire(s) could also be defective. Connector pins can be replaced, the hard part is identifying the correct pin and most folks do not have the correct crimping tool.
I believe the Orange arrow is another single temperature sensor.
To me, the thing is, if the sensor or the connection to it were bad I would thing that would produce an appropriate error message about that sensor. And possibly the temperature readings in the 'Status Display Screen' would not be reasonable.
*** However right next to it (Red circle) is a jumper that I believe has to be intact to supply power to the Gas Valve. I would be very curious about its integrity. ***
" While I was jiggling this connector it started to fire and I heard a clicking sound coming from this device on the side of the heat exchanger: "
This looks like a ceramic power resistor and should not make any clicking noise. Possibly it is a another temperature sensor or limit switch.
Basically only relays, solenoids, Gas Valves make clicking noises, I suspect you were hearing a relay click from the control board.
" Can it also be I'm chasing a bunch of old connections that are accumulating in low voltage? " This is possible but I don't think it is the cause in this case, since they would all have to heal for it to work and it does work once in a while.
Since you previously identified severely insufficient voltage going to the Gas Valve assembly (rectifier board) during an ignition attempt. I don't believe messing with the throttle will prove anything more beneficial than adjusting the throttle on a car when troubleshooting a dim headlight.
109A_5
Re: Radiant Therapy.....
To our most respected gentlemen, live your lives and enjoy every day. There is plenty of time to sleep someday. For now, rest assured that your contributions to society are most valuable and appreciated. You could also try Advil P,M, God bless us old timers!!
Re: Why Does So Much Heat Go Up The Chimney?
Then my V-14 must be the exception, Glenn. It still has the original Flair stack damper. The only thing I've had to do to it is add some lube to the gear case. If the boiler runs a bit on a mild morning, then doesn't run all day, it will still be warm in the evening since the damper prevents standby loss. That's efficiency!
Of course, I maintain my boiler properly. I would assume that a stack damper that gets plugged with soot will fail. Mine never does.
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Re: Burner technicians -what’s going on in this industry?
I think they're both the same, people doing installs that haven't done service is how you get things like condensate lines or gas pipes keeping access panels from being removed for stuff or control wiring that has to be disconnected to move the control board off to the side to pull the blower out or oil burners that won't hinge open because something is in the way.
mattmia2
Re: Burner technicians -what’s going on in this industry?
This happens with av techs and installers. the techs are scheduled for more jobs than they can pay attention to and the schedulers don't understand that there is a couple hours involved in parking on our campus and moving tools and equipment in and out not to mention there is a huge mental load in all that so by the time they are in front of the equipment they are out of time and are thinking about logistics rather than the problem. Then they have been scheduled to do that 2 more times on other campuses 2 hours apart in the same day.
Install crews have a lot of the same logistic problems so they probably get 3-4 hours of actual work on our campus in a day but they aren't scheduled that way.
mattmia2
Re: Question about gas valve placement on the main inside a house, allowed or not?
I don't see how dot would have jurisdiction over fixed, installed gas infrastructure. There is federal jurisdiction to some extent because the state systems are interconnected but it isn't under dot.
NYC needs the level of regulation it has because of the number of landlords that don't care if their tenants blow up and it takes a couple other large buildings with it, you don't see that level of regulation other places unless they have similar conditions. Some states don't let homeowners touch gas. things like this shouldn't happen. I heard this 9 miles away inside my house.
mattmia2
Re: Best Solution for Connecting Copper to Iron Boiler
Galvanic corrosion and electrolysis are mostly mythical when it comes to closed loop hydronic systems. The corrosion pictured is due to a leak, not dissimilar metals. If it makes you feel better to use a brass elbow or valve, go for it but it's not necessary in a leak free system. Absolutely do NOT use dielectric unions- they cause 100x more issues than they solve.
GroundUp
Re: Best Solution for Connecting Copper to Iron Boiler
if the relief is dripping it is probably an issue with the expansion tank although the relief valve should be replaced every few years anyhow.
if the expansion tank is waterlogged and causing the relief valve to blow off when the system is hot that will bring fresh water in to the system and cause corrosion.
mattmia2
Re: Best Solution for Connecting Copper to Iron Boiler
Not as much of an issue with a boiler, but code here for potable is to use a brass transition fitting between copper and iron pipe. Wouldn't hurt in any event.
Water heaters always need dielectric unions.
