Best Of
Re: Best Solution for Connecting Copper to Iron Boiler
Experience has proven to me that a brass fitting or valve between copper and black pipe is a great transition method. It causes the least amount of issues.
@bassman92 You can also use a dielectric nipple as a transition fitting.

Re: Question about gas valve placement on the main inside a house, allowed or not?
We were "told" by National Grid that this was Federal Law pushed by the D.O.T. and that the rules were the same in all 50. Hmmm?? Mad Dog
Re: Oil Burner Tools
I think I still have a Nozzle Wrench somewhere. It has 3/4 and 11/16, with the 11/16 for the old burner bulkhead fittings.

Re: Pipe Dope for 2" Home Oil Tank Lines?
The modern challenge is the rarity of common sense; very few possess it. And even fewer practice it.

Re: Burner technicians -what’s going on in this industry?
Not original to me- I got it from @Firedragon .
Re: Replace B&G 100 or use Taco 007 monoflo
I called Taco and got two Senior Engineers on the line and told them what was done and one of them just went nutz! "I wish those F-ing guys would stop replacing 100s with 7-F5s!!!" The closest to the 100 is the Taco 0010 series. NOT the 007.
These two Senior Engineers are making statements without any facts. If they bothered to look at the pump curve for the 100, they would see that it crosses the curve for the 007 right at 10 GPM. If you need anything LESS than 10GPM, the 007 is going to flow more than the 100 at a given head. If you need MORE than 10 GPM (impossible on 3/4), the 100 is going to flow more than the 007.
It is impossible for the 007 to cause you to freeze if the 100 was perfectly fine unless you've got 1" or greater piping on a zone that has the capability of delivering over 80K BTUH (twice the heatloss of a typical 2000 sq. ft house @ 0°F).
I have serious doubts about the veracity of the story.

Re: Burner technicians -what’s going on in this industry?
When it comes to common sense, it is extremely difficult to repair stupidity.
Re: Pipe Dope for 2" Home Oil Tank Lines?
What about hardening vs non-hardening dope? I am planning on replacing my flex hoses on my Tigerloop, as they are over 4 years old, and seem to have some minor vacuum leak there. What dope should I use on the new flex line connections? The flex hoses are only supposed to be good for 5 years, esp the 221* part number which is said to deteriorate when exposed to biofuel ( which is now everywhere) .
I will use the new Beckett S223-24, which is B100 rated now.
I am thinking there is a vacuum leak there, because I was having daily loss of prime for a few months now if the system sits idle for some lenght of time. After trying a few things, I tightened the nuts on the Tigerloop flex hoses, and the problem went away. The nuts on the flex hose where they attach to the tigerloop were a bit lose. I could turn them a 1/4 turn without putting much torque on these/
Seems like increasing the TFI from 15 ro 30 seconds also made a difference. Unless the issue is something else, and the problem comes and goes coincidental to whatever I am doing.
What brings me to the Pipe dope: I wonder why those nuts loosened up. I put in an overhead supply line when I replaced my tanks with a couple of Roth, a year and a half ago. The setup worked flawlessly for about a year, but started having daily lockouts about 3 months ago. I wonder if using as "better" pipe dope could prevent these nuts from coming loose? I have some Energy Kinetics branded non-hardening white dope left ny the folks who put i my system 4 years ago, or could buy whatever you guys recommend.

Re: Experience I had with a boiler tech and what I learned along the way.
I'm the type of person that spends hours researching things when it comes to stuff like this and have watched just about every combustion analizer video on you tube, even the ones that are like an hour and a half long of experts discussing different things about analysis.
I've also looked through most forums and reddit discussions on the subject. Luckily for me most of my day at work consists of me sitting around with nothing better to do than look online.
Its also why I bought the insight plus because it can be calibrated using your own gas and regulator and you can get pre calibrated sensors for it too. I wouldn't have blew $2k without doing the research. I certainly do understand the concern you guys may have though since its obviously not my expertise but from what I can tell, everything is in order. I appreciate the help and feed back everyone has givein, you guys know your stuff.
