Best Of
Re: Mystery- One radiator making a hammering loud sound at beginning of cycle
The various vent choices have much more to do with how fast and how completely the radiator heats than anything else — it might make a small difference to the banging, but very little. So don't worry about that.
Re: [Solved] Taco VT2218 Rattling Sound
Can you get enough flow through that copper tube boiler with just one zone open? You may need a primary secondary piping to assure the boiler gets adequate flow
Looks like a good size boiler, what is the heat load of the building?

Re: Single pipe radiator
bodge[bäj]verb
- make or repair (something) badly or clumsily:"they were left in a half-finished house renovation when the company bodged improvement works" · "the door was bodged together from old planks"
Had to look this term up, but "unbodge" is clearly on point and should be part of the lexicon
Regards,
RTW

Testo 310
i have a 10 year old Testo 310 combustion analyzer that has only been used about a dozen times. i bought it to test the combustion on my own steam system. It now tells me the o2 sensor is bad. I peeled it apart with some difficulty and the sensor in the unit is a 0390 0285.
The Testo site does not accept that number. This is the original 310 not the 310-II, does anyone know of a replacement part number? They charge a small fortune so I don't want to just guess

Re: Funny but not so funny
Well, better that your water line leaked into the septic than vice versa. 😄

Re: The "equalizer" is mis-named. It does nothing to equalize anything.
Too bad..
Great time. I'm a retired drinker, but I would've bought you a few rounds....Mad Dog
Re: Loud radiators - first “shoulder season” night
ah I re-read your original post and makes sense now. Will try that though running out of heating days here in NJ
Re: Stadler radiant heat loop always circulating
I would say if the radiant zone is basically the same room or space as the kitchen great room zone, then keeping on one thermostat/ zone makes sense. The red knobs on the manifold would let you do some balancing if the radiant 144 sq ft is over-heating.
Since the info has been dribbling in, it is tough to come up with the best fix. It looks like zone 2&3 will call on the boiler, based on the relay box wiring. So one heating zone and one for the indirect?
I'm not sure why the nozzle was switched back and forth? If the manual calls for the .65, what was the reasoning for the .85?
All in all I don't see any major problems.
As far a heating cost, start looking for ways to upgrade the structure. Have an energy audit done, blower door and infrared scan. That could be the biggest win for lowering heating costs.

Re: The "equalizer" is mis-named. It does nothing to equalize anything.
Every time I see this come back up to the front of the line, I laugh…. I had this debate with Paul because I learned what was in the books so long ago that it was as if that dimension "A" and the Equalizer were second nature to me. And when you know something… YOU KNOW IT!
Paul's experiment and video showed me that on a small residential system there is not much pressure drop from one end of the main to the other. That whole steam chest of the boiler pushing water out the return backwards did not need 28" of dimension "A" to force the water back into the boiler.
But if the pipes are restricted with years of sediment, and we are talking about a rather large building, then that dimension “A” can certainly help the water get back to the boiler. But when doing the testing on a small residential system, at such low pressures, that is well cared for, and probably has no sediment in any of the wet returns, then you basically have a U tube manometer with equal pressure on both ends of the main, at the boiler and past the last radiator, at the last drop into the return.
Paul finally made me change my opinion of the whole thing. Those pictures in the book are only illustrations. They did not use glass pipes and measure the pressure differences to see inside those pipes. They made educated guesses based on what they found with previous systems. Some of those systems were built before the Carbon Club members made the 1.5 PSI rule that we all use today. I might guess that 50 to 100 PSI steam might have a bit more friction traveling through some of those old steam pipes and that the dimension "A" may have been more that 28" to overcome the 2 or 3 PSI difference on those older 100 PSI systems. Ya never really know where those old beliefs, guides and rules came from, and why they are still in use today.
There is a story about how the railroad track gauge (width) is based on the Roman Chariot wheel base. As the road ways were traveled by these chariots they made groves and ruts as many carts rolled over the same path over and over. If you designed a chariot with a different wheelbase, your wheels would soon fail trying to find their way into the existing groves. If you didn't want your carts to have constant wheel failures you adopted the standard wheelbase as all the chariots. This lasted for centuries and when the railways and steam locomotives were introduced, the existing wheelbase was already an engineering standard and they had no reason to change it.
Is this truth or an old urban legend? Who knows? It is a good story to explain the odd dimension of 4' 8.5" or 143.5 cm as the standard rail gauge in the USA. Such a strange number to use. And Roman Chariots were never used in the 2 and 3 centuries in the Americas. We weren't even called the Americas yet! But you can easily fit a team of 2 horses side by side within that 4' 8.5" wheelbase so the horses didn't lose their footing in the ruts.
But now that all the tracks are 4' 8.5" wide, then all future tracks will be 4' 8.5" even if there is a better dimension for future needs. It is that way because that is the way we learned it. That weird number is kind of like Dimension “A” in all the old engineering books.