Single Pipe Steam Boiler Replacement & Piping (Unusual header?) Advice for Amateur

If it was me I'd replace the boiler myself, others on this site have, and I believe they are glad they did. It seems your contractors only want to do a mediocre job. Probably the hardest part is getting the new boiler into the basement. Although it actually seems that the hardest part is for some contractors to do a good installation job.

If you prefer to not do the work yourself, I guess keep getting estimates until you get one you like without a lot of coaching. Has any contractor measured the radiators ?

I'd match the boiler (Square Feet) to the EDR. (Assuming the EDR survey is accurate) As an example, my boiler could run for hours (if needed) and the pressure never gets to 2 Inches of water column (0.072 PSIG). It is slightly undersized, yet heats the house just fine. No extra pressure during a recovery from a setback.

Your near boiler piping is not correct. So it should be corrected, a new boiler install is the perfect time to get it done.

I would not reward Burnham with another purchase. Maybe 29 years is good run for a Burnham. I believe my old boiler is over 50.

The drips at the end of the mains should be individual pipes until well under the boiler's water line then connected into the wet return, to isolate each main from the other.

Since you are using Big Mouths, run the longer main with minimal or no vent restriction, a custom orifice can be easily made from a pipe plug and added the threaded vent of the Big Mouth on the shorter main. This way the steam gets to the end of each main at about the same time.

I'd probably get the chimney repaired / relined for quiet boiler operation and maybe change the orientation of the boiler to minimize the flew pipe length.

I believe member @KarlW also lives in the Rochester area. He may have knowledge of a local contractor that worked out for him. You could PM him and see if he has any advice that will help you.

@109A_5 Thanks for the callout. I responded to OP's message and gave him who I use a mechanic. He's a young (for steam) guy in his late 20s/early 30s, but unlike everyone else I've worked with here in Rochester, he understands that steam is different than water.

That said, as to a new boiler, I think most local companies can install it properly. The problem around here isn't workmanship, it's knowledge of how steam is different than water. As long as OP holds the contractor to the diagram in the boiler manual, they should be able to install it properly.

There are things in that system that won't directly be in the manual and whatever is going on at the ends of the mains has to be repiped correctly.

Another note; if you are moving those drops you might want to be aware of the required working distance in front of a CB panel.

Working space is 30" wide, 36" back from front of panel. This space should extend from floor to ceiling.

Your PVC drain line is already encroaching on the working space.

The footprint of the panel should be clear to the floor.

Now common sense dictates that you are not going to run any piping out the bottom of the panel to the story below the basement.

But the standing space for the electrician (30" X 36") is actually a fall back area in the event of electric arc or shock. ( I have needed this space several times for that reason).

So if you could re-pipe this such that your pipe is under the PVC and almost against the wall it would be a practical solution for safety, although technically not within code requirements.

it is hard to tell where the main itself is from that perspective but the panelboard may not have been installed to current code in relation to the main itself. i think the working space required was less in the 80's so it may have been code when it was installed.

colored romex became a thing after the current rules about working space. can't really see how it would have passed an inspection. they spliced everything in a big nema box, they could have moved it someplace that was legal.

Looking in my trusty 1965 NEC book from trade school;

Article 110-16 does require working spaces of 30" side to side and 36" back from the front.

That panel and plywood looks much newer than 1965.

For those of you familiar with the current NEC book, this one has 435 pages, is 7 1/2" X 5". Cost is $1.00.

I also have the 1956 NEC, it has 375 pages, is 7" X 5" and was probably free as "Allen Bradley" and "Bulldog" promotional stickers are affixed to the cover.

I recall being called out in the 80's for working space.

It was a new panel install that had a horizontal drain line about a foot below the new install.

The inspector pointed out the invasion of the pipe. I pointed out that we are in a basement 10' below grade and would not be running any pipe to the non existent lower floor. He did concede to common sense but just wanted to educate me that the upper and lower footprint of the panel box needed to have a clear shot to the finished ceiling and down to the floor.

In your parents house the inspector may have allowed some "Grandfather" grace for this installation because that is where the original panel was located.

Now if this OP runs piping close to the wall just under the PVC drain and such that an electrician would not have his body against the grounded pipe I would feel comfortable sticking my hand in the hot box.

We all would probably agree that a "real estate house inspector" would probably not point out the violation. There are plenty of other issues they would miss.