Best Of
Re: Faucet brands
I didn't mean that cheap I just can't do $400-500 right now. $150-200 wouldn't be an issue.

Re: Faucet brands
Just a tip with Delta cups and springs. Only buy Delta brand! The cheaper ones are like plastic instead of rubber, and seal like it. A little more expensive, but worth it.
Rick
Re: Drill Bits & Taps
yeah definitely intend on getting a few of needed size, I wasn’t looking to get a set with 30/30 sizes but I know they make kits of 5 or 6 up to 1/2” that is just good to have for other applications as well
Re: Drill Bits & Taps
I admire your preperation. This type of job is the type that I hated, and I do mean hated to do the most.
Before starting, I would get more drill bits of the needed size. They, as you know can break. I would also double up on the taps just incase something happens to one. But probably not an entire kit.
As to what @EBEBRATT-Ed says above, you don't really need a entire set. A good grinding wheel and a center punch is good to have too.
I hope the bolts come out without needing all of this. The only one that didn't give me much trouble was a Utica boiler. I think it was a star fire three or something like that name. It had stainless steel bolts and came out the easiest.
And some never seize on the bolts when your done.

Re: System 2000 oil boiler cycling on/off, what is normal?
Overcomplication. The dip switches on the bottom of the manager can be set to increase return temp. shutdown, approx. 155 to 170. Set high limit back to 215, that's how Roger's engineers designed the system. Result will be that first floor will heat a little faster and will be a little less short burner cycling. An original inquiry was "is this normal?" Answer is mostly yes, but I just outlined how to minimize short burner cycling. It is not a big deal, your fuel usage is at a minimum with an EK boiler properly set up. Consult your EK digital manager guide for proper dip switch setting, I don't remember offhand.
Re: Drill Bits & Taps
Last one I bought was Vermont American...not sure they are still in business. Mad Dog
Re: Drill Bits & Taps
I mean there is no real sense to buy a complete tap and die set.
Most likely the bolts are 3/8"-16 national coarse thread which would use a 5/16 drill bit. You should get a starting tap and a bottoming tap and a tap wrench.
If they are 1/2" dia bolts (doubtful) you would need a 27/64 drill bit and the tap would be 1/2"-13 thread
7/16 dia bolts are a possibility you don't see them very much but 7/16-14 national coarse you need a letter U drill.
If you want real good taps Starett is probably 1 of the best. Craftsman and Hanson are decent brands and there are others. McMaster Carr would have tap sets and there is always Harbor Freight for cheap stuff
Depending on the work you do I usually never bought a tap set. Nice to have but too many sizes you never use.
I just bought taps and drills that I needed.
Re: Piping for New Steam Boiler
I got the cross sectional areas from LAOSH and Engineers Toolbox, so I did not run the calcs from scratch.
I like the looks of using full size tees with reducers, but you can gain some horizontal space on your header by using reducing tees: a 4x4x2 tee is 2" shorter than a regular 4" tee.

Re: I Want to ADD a 4-wire GVD Vent Damper to Thermopile-powered DHW Hot Water Heater
Thanks Larry.
I usually caucus with the mad scientists, but I've been trying to follow this thread and I just don't get what the OP is trying to accomplish.
But three years in, I'm still happy with my ventless dryer.
Re: WiFi thermostat for steam system with programmable cycles
This is the link to my actual comment if @Charlie from wmass is interested at all. https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1834880/#Comment_1834880
finished product might look like this: