Best Of
Re: Underperforming system in cold temps
Does the supply pipe going into the mixing valve feel like it is 150F?
And is that the supply pipe coming from the top or bottom in that photo with the Taco mixing valve?
I don't see the "supply sensor" going into the taco mixing vavle. Is it just bent over and not visible in photo? where is that sensor on your piping? What is that wire nut connecting?
Looks like someone has been fairly aggressive with a screwdriver on that mixing valve.
bjohnhy
Re: Sight glass full, boiler cycles on and off every 30 seconds.
First step is to drain the water to an acceptable level. About halfway full, give or take. I guess would be that it's cycling on pressure, which is building up due to the excessive water levels.
Re: 2 out of 3 heating zones not working
UPDATE! Sorry for the delay. Checked voltage on transformer and zone valves all checked out at 24V and were operating . The expansion tank was shot and full of water so replacing that was a no-brainer.
The single circulator pump was suspected of not working. although I did have heat on 2nd floor on a short cycle basis. The pump was replaced 6 years ago so I was hesitant on replacing it. I checked voltage to the aquastat and had 120V on L1/2 and 25V on T/T but C1/2 had nothing and relay was pulled in so the thermostats were calling. So no power to the circulator. Drained the boiler down a bit, removed the 30 year old aquasat and replaced with a new "HydroStat". Bleed the whole system again (I'm really good at it now) and fired it up. BEHOLD! Let there be heat! With temps as low as -10 I am relieved. Having heat on 2nd floor must have been natural convection or something not sure. But it works now without short cycling.
THANK YOU to all who gave input and advice, I truly appreciate it .
tmtruett
Re: New Crown boilers - updated piping
Did they repipe it after they installed it or is that how they installed it? As I see it they used a cheap vent and didn't fix some issues someone in the past left behind. They didn't do the best job but didn't do an awful job either.
mattmia2
Re: Air to Water Heatpump scenario for my abode.
"With the swt hardly breaking 140 at designed would an a2w hp be viable with the rads that I have? "
There's the rub. Both the output and the COP really fall off the table at cold temperatures when you raise the water temperature.
Let me ask this: Do you have AC? Would you like to have AC? As a rough back-of-the-envelope guess, based on your heating load and the weather station data I'd say your cooling load is about 1.5 tons. I'd think about two heat pumps, an air-to-water that does most of your heating, an air-to-air that provides cooling in the summer and more heat when the air-to-water can't get the water hot enough in the winter.
The other option would be adding more radiators or other emitters.
Re: Even more steam system questions……
Glad I was able to locate it, and acknowledge that it appears to be functioning properly. At the same time I was able look at a few pipes and connections behind finished areas to check for leaks, which I did not see any. Finished it off with a small 8 x 12 access panel for future viewing.
geemalar
Re: Angle Radiator Valve for Balancing (with linear flow control)
Angle Radiator Valve for Balancing (with linear flow control)
It's a monoflow diverter tee system.
Radiators closest to the boiler overheat.
Dahl Canada used to make the following which have just been discontinued:
They have linear flow control for every turn of the spindle as opposed to a regular radiator valve which is apparently mostly meant for on/off and has 80% of the flow when 1/4 open which isn't useful for balancing
Does anyone know of a different valve i can use that's specifically meant for balancing?
sixplex
Re: Anyone ever seen a duct system like this before?
There was a small duct, high temperature, low airflow system briefly popular between the late 1950s and early 60s. I've seen that once before. The supply air temperature was about 250° F and the original supply diffusers induced room air into the flow so the outlet temperature was lower.
I believe this system is no longer code approved. The high temperature furnaces have not been made in a long time, and so far as I know the only solution is a new duct system built to conventional standards, or a completely new heating system of a different type.
bburd
Re: Even more steam system questions……
Found it…..fortunately it’s at the far end of a storage area, so with an access panel I can make it look presentable if someone was to look at it. As if anyone was going to look in my storage area in my basement……
The 2 mains meet up about 3 feet away and run to this 90 degree elbow that the main vent sits on. The vent sits on top of the vertical pipe in my closet picture. So as my boiler was running I could hear the main vent release steam and then close. So it would appear that is functioning correctly. Is it necessary to run a vertical stub pipe and fit the main vent on top. I have the room. Nothing I would do now, that would be a summer task. Or leave good enough alone. The vent valve has to be over 20 years old. I have no issue replacing it once the heating season is over.
geemalar