Best Of
Re: What was the best MacGuyver moment you actually saw on a job site?
Years ago, out in the middle of nowhere on a farm with no water. Couldn't troubleshoot a submersible pump's electric motor deep in a well. We needed to take a continuity reading, but the glass fuse on the lead of the old amprobe meter had blown, and we didn't have a replacement. Back then, almost everyone had a pack of cigarettes. Stripped a small piece of foil from the pack and wrapped it from top to bottom of the blown fuse, fooling the meter with that little bypass. Continuity taken.
Intplm.
Re: some help/advice, pressure shut off, pigtail
I would spray the threads with "Kroil" or any penetrating oil numerous times over a few days before you try to remove that pigtail. Let the penetrating oil sit for hours to allow it to do it's magic. Then use a 6" or 8" Ridgid pipe wrench, putting it as close to the low water control as possible to reduce the chance of breaking the pigtail. Try turning the pigtail just slightly CW as if you are trying to tighten it before you try to remove it. The last torque that pigtail saw was when it was installed so the resistance to turn will be the least when turning it CW as if still tightening it. When you get it out, replace it with a brass pigtail and use Permatex anti seize lubricant.
Re: Replacement for Old School Dual drain slop sink
is this the one?
Mustee Twin Waste Assembly https://a.co/d/a1WoxNN
Or do they make version with the stud mounts?
PC7060
Re: Replacement for Old School Dual drain slop sink
had the same thing on Maple Ave in S Hempstead. Sold that house 25 years ago.
pecmsg
Re: Replacement for Old School Dual drain slop sink
I had that drain connection on a double sink in my mother's house (mid 1940's).
The sink seemed to be concrete with metal upper protective trim and a washboard built into one of the sloped walls. Very handy with wringer washer and quite durable.
When redoing plumbing I knew to not touch it.
We moved away instead.😊
Re: "Yelp"/ angi list for contractors.
I was on a job about five years ago, another GC situation. 99% of our work is homeowner direct, for the last 20 years. I did more GC stuff in the 90s.
I’m always discussing money flow. My antennas interpret the amount of communication needed. Nobody wants somebody droning on about the same topic, especially money.
We’re at the end of the project and it becomes clear that the money flow isn’t what they said in the beginning. “The person that signs the checks is off this week”. I told the lead guy: “the system will not operate until I have a check on my hand“. About three hours later, the envelope was placed in my hand. It all worked out.
Conversely, we did another GC two years ago. I believe I just stated my general intentions/expectations once in an email. He agreed. That’s all I said. The nice man delivered as promised.
GW
Re: "Yelp"/ angi list for contractors.
Yeah,
I know your not allowed to "sabotage" the job if you don't get paid, I have heard of that in the past.
GCs always pay late and then their is retainage to deal with.
When we started a job we would tend to "over bill" the progress payments in an order to "get ahead" on late payments.
But you have to be careful with that as well. If you end up having to issue a credit for some reason or have to justify the progress payments it can backfire on you.
Re: "Yelp"/ angi list for contractors.
Got myself into a situation once. Bid a job in Connecticut to install 3 emergency generators in 3 fire stations.
Got quotes on the generators and after I was awarded the job by the town the generator company sprung there terms on me that they wanted all the money when the gens were delivered.
Having just started my business I didn't have much cash laying around and I was in a pickle being locked into my bid.
The gen company had an office in CT and there main office was in NJ. Isent back the proposal with 1/3 of the $$ and stated my terms: 1/3 down, 1/3 on delivery, 1/3 after start up (by the gen people) and acceptance by the town.
They cashed my check.
4 weeks later the Gens were ready and they called me form CT office and wanted all the money
I called the main office in NJ and we got in a scuffle. I told him you cashed the check (you could have returned it) thereby you accepted my terms. Things were ok after that.
Its all about leverage in business. You have to keep some bullets in your gun.
Re: Where can I find Pennsylvania code reqs for residential basement oil tanks?
Most state use NFPA 31.
I have never heard of any requirement for a space from a stone/mortar wall. 2-3" should be fine.
I wouldn't worry about it. Its your installers problem anyhow. If you get into it it will be your problem. You are overthinking it.
