Best Of
Re: B & G Dou - Flo Valve??? Main loop Supply/ Return and Secondary loop Supply / Return
@delcrossv Good catch never seen one of those.
Re: Residential Steam Boiler Replacement - EDR Questions
I just finished reading "We got steam heat" by Dan Holohan. It's a great read and I was chuckling all the way through, but most importantly it gives a great description of steam systems, their components and how they work, all in simple terms (for guys like me:). I learned a lot from it.
Thanx for the suggestion, I would recommend it to anyone new to steam
Radiant Loop Using Cast Iron Radiators
Hello All. I am Installing a new hydronic radiant heating system in an existing home that is currently "gutted" of most drywall and interior finishes. The home is two stories, about 22 years old, and built with modern materials and methods. I have decided to use cast iron radiators for the emitters and each floor will be its own independently controlled zone on its own loop using a reverse return, 2 pipe system. I have already done a thorough heat loss analysis and sized the radiators required for each room. The loop for the first floor will be in the basement with the supply and return to each radiator going up through the floor. The loop for the second story will be run along/though the second story floor joists between the first floor ceiling and second story floor with the supply and return for each second story radiator going up through the second story floor. The piping for the first floor loop (in basement) will probably be copper, and the loop for the second story will have to be pex since I am going to have to drill each floor joist and "fish" it through each one 16" O.C. My question is: in this scenario how does one get the water from the supply loop up and into the radiators? The floor joists in both cases are 2x10s so the supply water will have to be pushed up about 15 inches into the radiator and radiators are 25" tall so approximately 40" of elevation difference. My guess is If I use regular tees for the supply and return to each radiator the water will never exit the supply loop. How is this typically done? Thanks in advance for any responses.
I will add I have sized and installed several radiant concrete floor slabs that work flawlessly but I have never messed with these cast iron radiators yet.
Re: Another Honeywell Heat Generator
In the words of his eminence Dan Holohan, pick up your tools and back away………….
Re: New Steam Boiler Installed, Water Hammer, Prematurely Turns Off, Frustrated
I suspect the dry return keeps going away from the camera's point of view beyond the point of the crossover trap and parallels the steam main around that part of the structure, providing a return for those radiators. More pictures of the piping and the main vent would help us understand your system better.
If the old boiler (before it failed) basically heated the building sufficiently, the new one of the same size should work relatively the same. However if it (the new boiler) is surging or other dysfunction because of poor piping and water quality and needs further attention the steam may not be getting to the radiators properly. If the steam can't get to the radiators properly they can't dissipate the heat properly and the pressure will rise.
If the venting is inadequate and the steam can't properly push the air out of the system so the steam can get to the radiators to dissipate its heat into the living space the pressure will rise.
I suspect there is multiple issues going on here. The new boiler install just kind of aggravated things to the point that you noticed.
109A_5
Re: Another Honeywell Heat Generator
easier and better to retrofit it to a prv and expansion tank
mattmia2
Re: Automatic water feeder that won’t fail in on position
Looks like someone just added a mag valve (solenoid valve) to the CG400 LWCO. The instructions clearly states not to do it that way, it "may cause flooding".
109A_5
Re: Insufficient Domestic Hot Water off Indirect Coil
I'll chime in the same as ethicalpaul the "hpdhw Evangelist". Put in a right-sized (50, 65, 80 gal.) heat pump water heater! It is a no brainer, especially with any still remaining incentives (from your electric co., state, federal etc.). Stop running the boiler in the warm months of the year! By the way, with the heat pump water heater you'll be using stand-by heat from the boiler to heat your water in the winter! How "cool" is that? ("cool" being the operative word. "Wink"). By the way, de-liming that coil set-up will not be so easy. No hook-ups!
psb75
