Best Of
Re: Heat loss
For existing structure, the quickest and most accurate heat load is from fuel use. Older houses have too many unknows for any Man J type of calculation to be accurate. In case of fuel use about the only error is boiler efficiency, DHW loads and passive solar gains.
The math is pretty straight forward:
https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/replacing-a-furnace-or-boiler
If you want even quicker, in zone 5,6, winter fuel use in Therms X 42 is about your heat loss. So if you burn 1000Therms of gas, your heat loss is around 42000BTU.
Kaos
Re: What kind of baseboard radiator is this?
This company make that type of heater, along with a few other companies.
Re: What kind of baseboard radiator is this?
I have had decent luck ordering suitable replacement convector guts from mestek/beacon morris, usually not an exact 1:1 but I have had luck getting something in there that fits and is of comparable capacity
GGross
Re: Getting rid of the old boiler sections
2400 lbs! We specifically dropped off the boiler by itself. Two trips. The front section was 700 lbs
$168 for all that workπ«
GW
Re: Struggling with MHK2 thermostat install on Mitsubishi Minisplits
Thanks guys. I definitely misread some of the compatibility charts and also wrongly trusted AI about how my system operates with the MHK2 and the Kumo wifi adapter (Ive also added the wifi adapters on my systems). It doesn't help that this also came at a time not to long after they rolled out the comfort app, which appears to have less functionality than the old Kumo app (and all guides/resources still reference the Kumo app). The short of it is, I wasted a lot of time hunting around for advanced settings that my system is not meant to display in the comfort app nor on the MHK2 thermostat. ugh!
Shortly after my post, I ended up getting a response to an email I sent Mitsubishi support. They said my unit has a physical jumper, not function codes/advanced settings in the app or on the MHK2 (which is what you both suggested). I then found Application Note 3048 that Kaos linked above, which confirms it β for my unit you have to cut the jumper to stop the fan.
Thanks for the help all.
papbct
Re: What To Look For When Replacing a Natural Gas Boiler
I can ask around for contractors in SW Idaho. Our Idaho Caleffi rep is a born and raised Idaho gal located near Idaho Falls.
She was a Ferguson branch manager for years, she will know the players in the area.
I know some of the big hydronic knowledgable shops are opening remote branches around the west. Usually around money, resort towns :)
Let me know or PM me the town you are near.
A small wall hung would clean up that room.
hot_rod
Re: Main air vent location
Yup. That's the longest but there are 3 more that are each just under 200'.
Gateacre
Re: Main air vent location
There's no hammer but the boiler needs to run for about 3 hours to get heat to these 2 rads which are at the end of a 270' main. I've rebuild the traps with Tunstall capsules which needed to be done but slows venting even more since they don't vent as quickly as the original trap elements. This system started out burning coal and nobody thought to add mains vents when it was converted.
Gateacre
Re: So fresh water carrying O2 causes corrosion. How about a HOT WATER TANK feeder into the boiler?
Probably much better than your tap water. If it is an open vessel it will still pick up CO2. Dust, mold spores, spiders, whatever is in your air or basement. I doubt the boiler will know or mind.
hot_rod
Re: Makeup water causing boiler failure due to thermal shock
this happened wile i was typing. I'm not sure if people have narrowed down if it is the overheating or the trying to fix the overheating by adding water(or trying to continue to drive it with a leaking cooling system after you've added water). I think it can be both but your best bet is to be patient and let it cool down before adding water.
mattmia2