Best Of
Re: Safgard 1150 LWCO question
As long as you know that the water content is appropriate, since it is a hydronic boiler, replace the entire LWCO. Steam can dirty up the probe but unlikely on hydronics. Electronics get intermittently unreliable all the time.
Re: Taco Air Scoop- Aged out?
There i8s no question that the microbubble type air separators do a better job is a short period. I did some time lapse filming of the two types yesterday.
The ramp type purger never did get the water completely clear. The separator cleared it up within 10 minutes. The key is the media inside which captures the smallest of bubbles.
So if you want the best heat transfer in all your hydronic components, upgrade to a sep or a 4 in 1 device.
hot_rod
Re: Another Honeywell Heat Generator
Mine is still active but since this one has already been decommissioned, and in an attic space, I would leave well enough alone. It will not cause any harm. However, if the homeowner does ask you to remove it, make sure not to tip it over or all the mercury inside will spill out and you will have a serious situation on hand. Let the customer know this as well.
If you haven't already, please watch Dan's video on the subject. Send it to the customer to watch as well. Knowledge is power.
Re: [Solved] Taco VT2218 Rattling Sound
My initial thought is you have air in the pipes that hasn't been purged out. How long has it been doing this?
Try taking out the ifc from the circulator if it's in place. Integral flow check valve. That could be vibrating causing the noise.
" On some zones, as you'll see in the video, the pump runs at around 58 watts while pushing only ~6GPM. Does this mean that the pump is undersized?" Not necessarily undersized. Is 6gpm enough to heat that zone. My experience with this 2218 is it runs full power 58 -65 watts until the delta is satisfied and then it backs off significantly to 7-11 watts until Delta exceeds parameters then it goes back to full power. There is not much for middle ground.
bjohnhy
Re: B & G Dou - Flo Valve??? Main loop Supply/ Return and Secondary loop Supply / Return
@delcrossv Good catch never seen one of those.
Re: Residential Steam Boiler Replacement - EDR Questions
I just finished reading "We got steam heat" by Dan Holohan. It's a great read and I was chuckling all the way through, but most importantly it gives a great description of steam systems, their components and how they work, all in simple terms (for guys like me:). I learned a lot from it.
Thanx for the suggestion, I would recommend it to anyone new to steam
Radiant Loop Using Cast Iron Radiators
Hello All. I am Installing a new hydronic radiant heating system in an existing home that is currently "gutted" of most drywall and interior finishes. The home is two stories, about 22 years old, and built with modern materials and methods. I have decided to use cast iron radiators for the emitters and each floor will be its own independently controlled zone on its own loop using a reverse return, 2 pipe system. I have already done a thorough heat loss analysis and sized the radiators required for each room. The loop for the first floor will be in the basement with the supply and return to each radiator going up through the floor. The loop for the second story will be run along/though the second story floor joists between the first floor ceiling and second story floor with the supply and return for each second story radiator going up through the second story floor. The piping for the first floor loop (in basement) will probably be copper, and the loop for the second story will have to be pex since I am going to have to drill each floor joist and "fish" it through each one 16" O.C. My question is: in this scenario how does one get the water from the supply loop up and into the radiators? The floor joists in both cases are 2x10s so the supply water will have to be pushed up about 15 inches into the radiator and radiators are 25" tall so approximately 40" of elevation difference. My guess is If I use regular tees for the supply and return to each radiator the water will never exit the supply loop. How is this typically done? Thanks in advance for any responses.
I will add I have sized and installed several radiant concrete floor slabs that work flawlessly but I have never messed with these cast iron radiators yet.
Re: Another Honeywell Heat Generator
In the words of his eminence Dan Holohan, pick up your tools and back away………….
Re: New Steam Boiler Installed, Water Hammer, Prematurely Turns Off, Frustrated
I suspect the dry return keeps going away from the camera's point of view beyond the point of the crossover trap and parallels the steam main around that part of the structure, providing a return for those radiators. More pictures of the piping and the main vent would help us understand your system better.
If the old boiler (before it failed) basically heated the building sufficiently, the new one of the same size should work relatively the same. However if it (the new boiler) is surging or other dysfunction because of poor piping and water quality and needs further attention the steam may not be getting to the radiators properly. If the steam can't get to the radiators properly they can't dissipate the heat properly and the pressure will rise.
If the venting is inadequate and the steam can't properly push the air out of the system so the steam can get to the radiators to dissipate its heat into the living space the pressure will rise.
I suspect there is multiple issues going on here. The new boiler install just kind of aggravated things to the point that you noticed.
109A_5
Re: Another Honeywell Heat Generator
easier and better to retrofit it to a prv and expansion tank
mattmia2