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Re: New Energy Kinetics Boiler: Was Kettling, Now its a Water Hammer Issue
We still need to check it. In the first two pics above, we can see a nozzle container sitting on top of the boiler. The end cap on it is blue- which is the color Delavan used for solid nozzles. Hollow nozzle containers have red end caps.
Re: Oil boiler and outdoor Wood Boiler
Don't worry about the flow inside that HX, it will handle all that you have to give through the pex from the boiler. Very little pressure drop in a HX of that size, regardless of the connection size. It's all about the square footage of the HX not the physical size.
Typically the HX has some flow rate and pressure drop info on the label or any documentation provided.
Usually you select a HX with the design software, free online. You enter flow rates and temperatures, it spits out the choices. A couple examples. The 5X20" in this example moves 73,000 btu/hr
hot_rod
Re: A Question About Monoflow & Venturi Tees- Scoop vs. Orifice
"Diverter Tee" sounds good to me
I suppose the word Monoflo(w) is like saying Kleenex. A trade name that became generic.
The Red Ring's I've used had the cone. The one's I've seen marked Monoflo have the ramp. Who knows if that's universal.
You mentioned nickels in tees. On jobs, I've encountered some 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2 copper tees that had 1/2 x 3/8 copper reducing couplings tack-brazed inside. Since they were in various facilities, I wonder if they were factory made somewhere.
PGB1
Re: Oil boiler and outdoor Wood Boiler
looks like you have a number of pipe size reductions? On the back of the boiler, then at the HX also. It all comes down to how many gpm you are trying to move through those circuits. The underground piping size and length is where the bottleneck tends to be on those OWF installs.
Also, you need a circulator after a 3 way mix valve. Looks like you have a pump pushing down and into the 3 way.
hot_rod
Re: Bypass boiler tankless hot water coil while still running the boiler to heat the home?
Just to add — leaving the tankless coil empty isn't going to hurt anything.
Re: Radiator to Valve Question
I thought I'd follow up, and thank you all for your suggestions and comments. After long thought, I decided not to try unbolting everything, nor attempting to cut and re-thread the pipe (making it lower to the floor).
While looking at the local hardware store, I bought four 1" end caps with a bunch of washers. They were flat on the bottom, and the washers could be used to stabilize, level from to back, and create slope towards the valve. I was pretty happy with the end result, and better yet - so was my bride!!
Re: Low Water Cut-off Sensor RB-122-E Probe Replacement
> Thank you. Will keep for my records, and see if my technician follows all the steps in the spring. :-) I don't want to learn the trade using my own boiler.
That's how I do it. It's not a code that must be adhered to.
Some might want to purge.
As long as the heat works, pressure maintains, and the burner circuit opens on limit, then it's all good.
HVACNUT
Re: Combustion Analyzer Calibration
Yes
Trutech is the best for calibration. Coupon "NCI2025".
But not necessary but every 2-3 years at most.
Re: Hydronic w/ radiant addition - design question
You can find your outdoor design temperature here:
Re: Switch vs VFD for submersible well pump
If you are intent on spending money, your funds would be better spent on a single speed submersible and install molded plastic round tank with a float switch, timer and a small jet pump to deliver water from the storage tank to the home appliances at a much lower pressure with greater flow and not worry about it??
The well pump feed pipe would pump water through the drain tapping of the molded tank and the piping from the tank to the home would come from the tanks drain tapping as well off the same tee. The limit switch would also be inserted through the lid of the tank.
It is better for a deep well submersible to let run flat out and spool down to a gradual stop anyway to reduce the amount of torque to almost none and put less stress. on your drop pipe and pump wire.
Deep well or multistage turbine pumps were designed for pumping light sweet crude oil in their original use and then for water well pumping. The use of a timer to control the submersible pump would let you fill a storage tank until it is full over a long period of time and then the float switch would control the operation of the submersible only when the float switch is low for a minute and shut off and then restart in an hour or two hours and simply run for one minute for each cycle.
Your new submersible pump will last longer and the storage tank will allow you to store more water that you would typically use and the jet pump that feeds water to the water appliances in the home can provide more water if needed at a lower pressure putting less stress on your homes piping.
leonz