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this valve can be rebuilt by replacing the snap on motor, replace the flapper and stem, or swap the entire valve via the union connections

If it's not broke …don't fix it!

Sometimes when you have the older version, The quality and workmanship of the old part is superior to the new model, having less expensive plastic parts replacing older metal gears and stuff. Same part number, different quality.

I think Inspector 12 retired 35 years ago and the stuff ain't been the same since!

Here’s a general question for you guys. The plumber suggested replacing all five Honeywell zone valves with identical new ones (and he’s not the first free-associating visiting plumber to suggest this). Does it ever make sense to replace a functioning zone valve with a newer cousin, just because it’s old (like we replace old cars)? Or do they fall under the category of if it’s not broke don’t fix it?

Also, if you replace a zone valve that no longer works, is the common thing to just swap out the motor and gear and stuff, the whole silver box, leaving the old brass part that has the actual valve mechanism (thus not having to do any soldering and unsoldering?) Do those brass valve parts actually attached to the zone risers commonly fail over time? In other words, when they say “replace the zone valves” can I assume it means just the box and mechanisms inside, not the whole valve/motor assembly?

Not proud of it but it has held for over a decade. JB weld putty over leaky joint.

Make sure to release the pressure from the system so the joint is not leaking while the putty dries.

Yup, I’m not sure but I think the circulator came with the boiler and it might even have been mounted there.

I might try the first way as soon as I can get some 50/50, but if it doesn’t work (hopefully it won’t make matters worse) I’ll go to the tee like you say, though I’d like to do that in the spring, living with the leak over the winter. Warm weather would give me more time and leeway.