Best Of
Re: Adding Hydronic run to existing system
II've done all my own Pex systems in previous house but never had a boiler system just regular DTWT. But yes if it's something I can do then 100% will do just don't know where to tie in and what would need. I've installed all my own Heat Pump minisplits and pretty much nothing would seem to overwhelm me so once I take some full wall pics someone can hopefully tell me where to tie in the new manifold and whatever else needed.
Also would I need another small pressure tank or would the one there supply it as well?
Re: 1966 heating oil tank
@massHomeowner I have had the "good fortune" of removing many 275 gallon indoor oil tanks. It has been years since we did this type of work, but I was directly involved with at least thirty removals. Most of the time it was an oil to gas conversion and our job was to drain, clean and remove the old oil tank from the site.
We would hire an oil removal company, they would take the oil away for a small fee. However, getting them to take the sludge was more difficult. A typical tank would have about one inch of thick sludge sitting on the bottom. I would say the sludge was about as thick as wheel bearing grease, sometimes it was as thick as Vaseline. In some rare circumstances, the sludge was actually more like two or three inches thick. This sludge will almost certainly clog your oil line, filters, etc. In my mind when we blew air into the oil line from the burner area, all we were really doing was making a mini-volcano in the oil tank. Oftentimes, we would get a call back a few days later that the oil was not flowing again.
As Ed mentioned above, having the oil line in the top of the tank about six inches above the bottom of the tank is a great place to start.
We have installed many "regular" 275 oil tanks in the last forty years. I am not aware of any of them failing. We have installed a few of the more modern double wall style tanks, they also seem to hold up well.
Re: Radiators make my apartment unbearable during winter
Looks to be hot water heating.
The valves are designed such that even when off completely, there is still a small port to pass water thru to prevent freezing……it is working isn't it.
I would go for the blanket or heavy rug draped over the radiator. The max temp should be 180 or less. Use cotton or wool IMO.
The Dr.'s note may just get you on the undesirable tenant list and probably not be a battle you want to fight.
Or put some inside screens on some windows to save the cats.
JUGHNE
Re: Radiators make my apartment unbearable during winter
Your building management needs to address this. If they fail to address it, get a Dr's Note that addresses your health concern about Hypothermia (excessive heat). That will put them in a corner. Mad Dog
Re: New Daikin - AC Mini Split
I've heard of leaks that are pressure (vacuum) dependent.
How confidant are you in your manifold, hoses, core extractor, etc.? I'm pretty sure my SMAN460 leaks internally, & I generally have to replace my Appion core tools every year or so.
Did you do a triple evac?
ratio
Re: Near boiler piping/replacement boiler
A heat load would add some more info to the question. 1800 sq ft X 25 btu/ ft guesstimate= 45,000BTU/hr required. That is on the coldest day.
80% of the heating season the load could be in the 30,000 range. So the boiler 152,000 you have could be 3-4 maybe 5 times what you need.
While` not hydronically ideal for that boiler, the circs are not causing efficiency issues on the return, unless the system has noisy air issues?
Here is a simple buffer piping, direct to load method. Indirect on priority with its own circ.
hot_rod
Re: Lochinvar burner cleaning
I've seen some rough ones but not as bad as hot rod's picture. I always do a combustion analysis after cleaning. There may not have one done in that pic, ever. The max that I recommend is 3 years between cleanings.
I always remove the back refractory and I use a Dremel tool with a stainless steel wire brush to clean the coils and a feeler gauge between the coils (there is a tool for this). I use CLR or Rydlyme to help break down the deposits. I'm going to try Axiom's product (thanks, hot rod). It takes me about 3 hours to do a though cleaning. This is what it looks like when I'm finished. This was a rough one which took almost 4 hrs.
Re: Near boiler piping/replacement boiler
The piping size is adequate for the load you have connected. 100' of fin tube could supply about 55,000 BTU/hr. Seems like plenty for 1800 square feet? No sense in having a boiler sized larger that the fin tube can put into the space. So a 60- 75,000 BTU/hr boiler would be adequate.
If your current boiler is twice that size, 120,000 or larger it probably short cycles and runs 70% efficiency range.
hot_rod
Re: Near boiler piping/replacement boiler
Three zones with 50'/zone = 150' x ~500 BTU/ft. @ 180° = 75,000 BTU. One inch pipe is fine for that load.
If you really want to do something, pipe it primary-secondary to keep the large boiler happy.
Re: Near boiler piping/replacement boiler
or a buffer tank. a buffer tank is probably the only thing you could do that might come close to paying for itself
mattmia2