Best Of
Re: Single pipe vented steam heat
draining and replacing brown water without addressing pH level is chasing your tail.
The fresh water just makes more rust faster
The tech is right. But I say you shouldn’t need more than 5 gallons per season
Re: Williamson GSA-100 Steam Boiler Tappings
The WM block, and the Williamson block, are exactly the same. WM offers the tankless coil option. Williamson does not. But on their typical standard boilers, the blocks are exactly the same.
Re: Williamson GSA-100 Steam Boiler Tappings
Yes. They don't approve its usage, but it is there. The only reason that it's not approved, is because they need to differentiate themselves a bit from Weil Mclain
Re: Attached EDR vs Boiler SF of steam
If the radiation can't keep up it doesn't matter how big you make the boiler it'll just keep cycling on pressure.
What pressure was your boiler running during this event?
ChrisJ
Re: Rehashing the old Williamson vs Weil McLain comparison, and new boiler specs
I am partial to the vomiting part. Then you know for sure its a bad boiler.
Re: Service for an old HydroTherm HC125B boiler in Westchester County NY
@walterk55 The Hydrotherms are great boilers; able to leap tall buildings in a single bound.
One of my customers has me come out every year to check her HC-85. She has radiant heating and her boiler had sooted up a few years ago; we took it apart and washed down the heat exchanger and were able to bring down carbon monoxide levels from 450ppm to less than 50.
So, whoever you hire, make sure they have a combustion analyzer and that they know how to use it.
Compared to a condensing boiler, there’s not much maintenance to do on a Hydrotherm. Check and clean the burners, check combustion levels, check the pressure on your expansion tank if it’s a bladder type and make sure the small swinging door at the burner box is properly installed. Check the wiring for any wear or melting of covering.
Re: Why did they do it this way?
I usually follow it up with two F & M (Fee & Mason) split ring hangers from the space just under the pressuretrol/Vaporstat over to the nearest immovable object (larger pipe) so no one can knock in to it and push it off kilter. Mad Dog
Re: Munchkin 140m troubleshooting FO9
Ya! you have a condensate drain issue. I would replace the front and rear refractory, do a complete HX cleaning. Remove the refractories before hand. I use CLR cleaner in a squirt bottle and soak it well. Use a stainless steel scouring pad that I get at the Dollar Store to scrub the HX. Use a garden hose to flush the the HX several times until the condesate hose runs freely. I use a feeler gauge to clean between the coils. I also use a stainless wire wheel on a dremel tool and go over the whole HX coils. I bought these wheels at Harbor Freight. Don't use anything but stainless steel to clean the HX. Flush and spray often. It takes me about 3 hours to clean a Munchkin. The longest it took me to clean a Lochinvar was almost 5 hours. Take your time and do it right.
Munchkins need a combustion analysis which is part of my cleaning process.
On low fire the fan rpm is about 1400 and at high fire 3200 as I recall. You have to access the service mode to adjust the rpm up or down. The manual tells you how to access the programing and the code which is 925.
This is what a Munchkin that I cleaned looks like.
