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Re: Steam Near Boiler Piping
Is the drip required? With the drop header and the short distance to the equalizer?
The clearance issue was a bigger deal than I originally thought due to the existing supply position, house settling, bent pipes or whatever may have caused it. I’ll need to repipe in the future. Either way, I had to drop the one main about 2” or it would have gone through the floor by the time it hit the risers (slight exaggeration) Photo below. The run from the riser to that offset is roughly 5.5’.
The second picture is charred floor joists. There are others nearby where there were joints which I wrote off as someone being careless with a torch while encouraging pipe removal. That one was in the middle of the pipe. These shouldn’t get hot enough to burn wood. Right? .
this particular pipe has been a pain Almost there though, hopefully
SMRTK
Re: Steam Near Boiler Piping
I agree with that, except there will be very little liquid water in there and it probably won't even flow, it will either get pushed on down the main, or it will re-vaporize. There will be a little more on startup when the pipes are heating up. No biggie.
Re: cast iron boiler summer settings
I don't promote this idea due to some fantastic savings, but rather for the simplicity and separation.
However, if you do want fantastic savings, then install a "hybrid" heat-pump water heater which often comes with substantial incentives from state government and/or utility
PS: the homeowner in your story was actually astonished by the cost to heat water with electricity? It should have been about $500 per year especially back then.
Re: Balancing
Its probably a trap issue of some sort. Start the boiler up when cold and follow the piped. Something changed. The work that was done is likely the cause. Maybe they gave you some wrong trap elements.
Re: Balancing
Perhaps now that all the leaks are fixed, the air can not get out as it used to.
Any air vents at the end of main or is there a receiver pump that might not be piped correctly so as to vent air?
JUGHNE
Re: Slantfin VHS-150 EP Aquastat
Not sure what this means;
" i added heat pumps and besides winter it’s only supplying heat to hot water, and the low diff that is hard set on the Honeywell has it eating through propane for no reason 9 months of the year. "
The heat pumps supply your DHW (Domestic Hot Water) ? The boiler supplies your DHW ? Some other appliance supplies your DHW ?
Did the boiler supply the DHW at some point in time ?
Anyway, shut OFF the Boiler's and / or the system's power, All the power OFF !!! Remove the screw from the relay (Red circle) it does not belong there, and put it back where it belongs (Orange arrow) and secure it. Secure the screw at the Blue circle so it does not fall out. Restore the power. See if your problem goes away.
109A_5
Re: Hot Water Recirculating system?
I set mine up with the intention of adding a pump if needed, however it has performed quite well.
My summer WH NG uses 23-25 CCF a month, about $35 a month.
Would I save 10% a month with the $400 investment? Don't know…..actually don't care. Old guy here……like to keep things simple.
JUGHNE
Re: Alternate means of hydronic heating a room that is kept cool, but occasionally needs to be warmed up
It was some Grainger/Dayton unit heater I got off of e-bay that someone had sitting in a box somewhere for a long time so I'm not sure the model but it is the ones that are rated for steam and hot water so it has a core and tanks instead of just a long finned tube. It would be loud if it were in my living room but it is fine just under the collar ties in my garage.
mattmia2
Re: Alternate means of hydronic heating a room that is kept cool, but occasionally needs to be warmed up
baseboard or panels aren't just radiant, they have a significant convective element. a convector cabinet can have a pretty high passive output but they generally need higher temp water for good output.
mattmia2