Best Of
Re: Reanimating Frankenstein - a gravity heat story
I never seen a gravity with TRV either , but I like the idea . It would solve all the house issues .
I would also add an outdoor reset control rather than using a thermostat . Make the operation work smoother .
Big Ed_4
Re: Gravity compression tank connection
If you use the bladder tank and have no circulator you can connect the bladder tank anywhere to the system or the boiler supply or return.
Re: Taco zone valve smoking
I think all taco powerheads smoke the first time you power them up.
Still remember the first on I ever did, thought I burnt one up for sure:>)
Glenn H
Re: Taco zone valve smoking
have been smoking for years when you first start them up. Then for the rest of their wonderful little lives they smell like they are burning and they get hot, that is a quick way to know if they are powered. Set the anticipators to 1.2 for better operation.
Unknown
Re: Taco zone valve smoking
I will test the transformer. I am guessing that it is in spec, beacuse the older zone valves don't smoke, just the new ones. The gold power head did not smoke as much as the green power head.
Jim
Jim P
Re: Taco zone valve smoking
I've only noticed the smoking this year ,maybe they have changed production methods.As for three valves on a transformer thats fine unless you have a house hold that wants all heat all the time then you'll be changing one head a year . When I attended a Honeywell sales pitch a few years ago the rep was able to show us all the math on this. But Honeywell 4 valves no problem .I change taco heads but install new Honeywell.
Lyle C
Re: Taco zone valve smoking
Well you may laugh but, I was told many years ago that it was due to the fact that Taco uses bee's wax in the head and any that may be on the outside will smoke off on the first cycle. i have seen it many times and have checked voltage and it is always with in tollerance.
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Re: Steam Boiler Pressure & Some Of My Adventures
It's not on a pigtail. It's an internal syphon. I ordered a replacement because I think it's just not working. I think I got to the bottom of it. I let everything run long enough so that all my radiators got hot. It looks like I may have a few vents that are no longer working properly, and I may have to increase the venting rate to balance things out a bit. I tested the pressuretrol while the boiler was running. If I bottom out the cut out pressure, it stopped the boiler from firing, and resumed if I increased it to 1.5psi again. So looks like that's working properly. I'm assuming that two things are happening.
1. My LWCO runs an intermittent test every 10 minutes. I'm guessing this is allowing for enough of a pressure drop that the pressuretrol is rarely kicking in.
2. The vents that I have that are not closing properly are probably allowing enough of a pressure drop so that the pressuretrol also is not kicking on. By the time I finished running everything, 3 of my radiator vents had not closed yet, but two definitely should have. The 3rd is also pretty old and I probably need to replace it anyway so that it vents more quickly.
So after doing all the replacements that I have, everything seems to be running pretty well. Fairly minimal water line movement, absolutely no water hammer at all, no leaking valves or radiators. Just a bit more work to do to balance the radiators.
Re: Steam Boiler Pressure & Some Of My Adventures
Ok, just so I am clear as to what you did. You removed the new Pressuretrol, the new 15 PSI gauge and the pigtail as one whole assembly and blew into it like the boiler pressure would go into the assembly and it all seemed to work OK, correct? The tapping into the boiler casting is also clear, not blocked. If all that is true, it certainly sounds like the 30 PSI gauge is giving you erroneous reading, I'd replace 30 PSI gauge.
109A_5