Best Of
Re: C wire with two Nest thermostats
@mrgoodbar We added your issue here as a new discussion (with a link to the related thread). We didn't want it to get lost at the bottom of an old thread. Thanks and welcome to HeatingHelp!
Re: Water Heater Expansion Tank Pressure
Thanks, Larry. I actually have a similar setup for my closed loop heating system with gauges on either side of the prv. But, there is no PRV on my domestic hot water or any of the main feed coming in so I was just going to ignore it for now and let it operate at 70psi. Perhaps next spring I can remove that globe valve and replace it with a PRV???
For now I'm going to monitor the incoming pressure and keep the expansion tank for the water heater at that same pressure.
Perhaps, next spring I could put a pressure reducing valve in place and set the PSI to something like 60 and add some valves/gauges perhaps.
Thank you
AnthVale
Re: Cleaning/Descaling Indirect Water Heater-Or is it too rusty?
A wet vac with a long skinny wand
hot_rod
Re: Honeywell Controller keeps shutting off
Just an update. Changed the Honeywell ST699 to a Honeywell ST9600 and the system is working fine now.
brading
Re: Honeywell Controller keeps shutting off
So it's not a thermostat, but a timer with a bypass. It seems it's some code in your area.
The issue is, here in the states, most residential controls are 24 vac powered, where you guys use 230 vac. And what with the 50 hertz stuff? 60 is where its at.
Are there not neighbors with a similar system, or any local heating companies you could ask? Because we could give you some information that directly violates the codes in your area. And that could have a direct effect on our awesome alliance.
HVACNUT
Re: Equalizer Return
Yes, in the drips connected to the main. The drips connected to the returns will stand enough higher to compensate for the pressure difference. Just a different way of saying the same thing…
Re: Equalizer Return
My dear friend @clammy !
No one is advocating to not install an equalizer. But like Steam Doctor said, I think it's important to understand what it does and what it doesn't do. Isn't that the nature of Dan's books, the classes at the Mechanic's Institute, and this forum itself?
I'm still so appreciative of you for your guidance over the years that you have given me and so many others on this forum.
If you'd ever like to see my setup, I'm just down a ways from you in Cedar Grove. I'll be able to show you that the water level never moves at the far end of the main, regardless of pressure or equalizer, using my Peerless boiler that you yourself suggested I buy from Henry's (and I followed your advice). This offer is open to anyone on this forum, and is more than hypothetical 🙂
Re: Boiler water/demineralizers like the Axiom Puropal method of demineralizing?
Slow but steady? Sidestream deionizer?That works..Just make sure that it is either hardpiped vs leaving it setup with just hoses...
Also a word of caution on behalf of the temperatures that the Mixed resin bed is subjected to:
This time of the year when the supply and return temp are lower based on ODR with a modcon most system will not melt the polymers used for the resin bed...Once we get into lower outdoor temperatures which will increase the fluid temp. the Mixed resin bed can melt and clump up in the filter.
Fire in chamber and smoke in basement
2019 Spirit VHF-ABT oil fired furnace with Beckett AFG burner. Last year the pump went. Replaced it with new clean cut pump and it worked fine for a few months, then same problem. Limped it through and now here we are with this heating season. First fire up of the year (early Sept) and burner went into lockout because the pump was seized up. Did a service on it - filter, nozzle, electrodes, coupling, freed up the pump and cleaned exchanger. Start it up and it ran, but a fire burned in combustion chamber after shut down for almost 10 minutes. Pulled it apart, checked everything, reassembled and did same thing. Combustion analyzer said everything was in check. My buddy who’s a tech recommended just running it and burning off any residual fuel inside. It was warm so a few days went by, go to start it and pump is stuck again. Spun it free by hand, reset it, burner lit and again a big fire after shut down. After talking to Beckett tech support they assured me the oil pump failure was from sludge in tank. I removed the two pipe system that fed off the bottom of the tank and changed it to one pipe off top. I installed a Tiger loop/filter to go along with new filter in the original filter housing as extra insurance. Installed new pump, bypass plug installed, set to 120 psi my unit called for, new nozzle, bled the air, start it up and once again big fire. Over the course of a week I’ve tried many things. I adjusted the Z dimension per Beckett manual. I confirmed solenoid is shutting off fuel instantly upon shut down. I completely disassembled the furnace and removed the heat exchanger for visual inspection. Still shiny and new looking. I also burn wood so this furnace gets little use. Only burn 100 gallons or so a season. (Also probably reason sludge in tank.) I smoke tested the heat exchanger. Slowly heated it with a large weed burner torch in the dark in hopes the metal would expand and a crack would appear and then smoke tested it again. I stuffed flashlights into every opening hoping to see light. Nothing. I reassembled, blocked the air tube and tried to use the blower to get any air back through the heat exchanger out the flue. Nothing. I adjusted the barometric damper while running to try and set it at -.03. The Klein manometer I bought isn’t the best, but I definitely seem to have a positive pressure coming down the flue and also out of the inspection cover. So as it sits right now I can’t get that -.03 -.04 in the flue and when I pull the nozzle assembly out it seems to always be soaked in fuel. I also removed the nozzle adapter and installed a new one with a new, correct size nozzle, measured the distance from nozzle to head with straight edge and ruler and set to manufacture specs which I believe was 1-3/8” with the heat shield which my burner has. I also replaced the original retention head due to cracks on it. I had my chimney repointed last year and new clay flues installed. The old ones were even in height. The new ones are offset with the upstairs fire place taller than the flue for furnace in basement. Research seems to say this is normal. I’m also a sinner and have the wood stove tied into same flue as furnace. I sweep the chimney every season and haven’t had a problem since installing the furnace in 2019. I did for the first time today though have some of the smoke from furnace exiting from the door on the wood stove. So there is a definitely a draft issue as well as a combustion issue in the chamber. But why all of a sudden? Sorry so long just trying to cover all bases. I am a licensed tech, so I’m knowledgeable, but limited as I do commercial ac/refrigeration. Any ideas?
Thank you
Gdoc3
Re: Need to replace corroded supply to radiator
Seems like the connection to the system is only a couple of inches from the bottom of the tank. That's plenty. The tank doesn't need to be completely dry, just mostly drained.
