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Re: treatment chemical for steam boiler
OP here with update.
I have been flushing my boiler every week, just a quart or two. The water is now clear and ph has remained at 12. I have heard it refill a couple times this winter, nothing too alarming.
Just wanted to thank the folks on this forum for helping me out!
Re: Old R22 General Electric Heat Pump Indoor Unit
Mr. Salesman Please stop replacing like for like. How do you know it was sized properly the 1st time. You dont. 1-Ton was 12,000 BTU/h back then, today it might be 3,000 latent 9,000 sensible.
1st ting to do is A heat load loss must be done AKA Manual "J".
pecmsg
Re: Flow too slow ?
You should still see some flow on those gauges. A 007 is plenty to push through a plate HX, mix valve and 4 loops.
Kaos
Re: Flow too slow ?
If you're not seeing flow, there is no flow. Unless it's piped backwards and you're pushing toward the return manifold (the one without the flowmeters), in which case, they can't read even if there is flow. If the system is properly piped and purged, you'd see flow on all loops immediately after powering up the circulator. Any amount of waiting is too long and will burn up a circ if there's no flow. Show us the final product please. 99% of the time, this is an airlock problem and the loops need to be purged of air. Not bled, actually purged- one at a time using an external pump.
GroundUp
Re: Flow too slow ?
yes purged, it's moving through the heat exchanger so I know it's moving, but is it moving fast enough?
This is first time start up, the floor is cold at 63*, I realize that is a lot of concrete to warm up. Just trying to determine if the pump is sufficient.
Or any other issues..
ETA .. I feel parts of the floor warming up and return temperature has increased about a degree or so ..
hunter29
Re: Excited about Boiler Design
Now that you've got your hammer drill, you might want to take the next step and get yourself a $75 or so 3" (or whatever size hole you want) diamond core bit from Amazon. The core bit makes one nice clean large-diameter hole without having to hammer drill a bunch of smaller holes, and it saves you from a lot of hammer-drill vibration, as you don't use the hammer setting with the diamond core bit, just pure rotary drilling.
You do need to select the correct diamond core bit for your material. I recently cored through 12 inches of 100-year-old concrete with large aggregate that was so hard, I couldn't hammer drill through it. I had to diamond core through it with a concrete diamond core bit. It was a "wet" bit, so I rigged my garden sprayer for a continuous water spray in the bit as I drilled. It took me an hour to get through because it was so hard, but softer materials like brick or concrete block will go much faster.
There are also diamond core bits for different materials, so be sure that whatever material you're drilling through is compatible with your bit. And be aware that there are dry and wet bits. I've only used wet bits, so I'm careful to keep water flow at all times and not let the bit dry out or overheat. And pay attention to the max RPM of the bit. Large bits have to go slower.
You will also need an SDS-plus threaded adapter that threads into the diamond core bit. (I think your Bosch is SDS plus, but you should verify.) The bit specs will say what size adapter you need.
Once you drill some nice clean, smooth diamond core holes, you won't want to go back to bashing with the hammer bits.
jesmed1
Re: Short cycling boiler. I'm stumped.
Or when the system is cooler just close the valve you now have, then fire the system up, but don't let the pressure go too high.
109A_5
Re: Old R22 General Electric Heat Pump Indoor Unit
what are you trying to Match Up?
that system is 40+ years old. Everything’s changed!
pecmsg
Re: MM67 LWCO life expectancy
Hello danmayer175,
My M&M 67 is at least 50 years old as near as I can tell. And it was mostly ignored except when someone remembered to do the blow down. When I first replaced the blow down valve (leaking) it had the round knob and slotted screws. I can't remember if it is now on the the 3rd or 4th OEM type valve now (I realize I can put a 'Dirt Pocket Cap' on and a cheap full port ball valve and/or just add cheap full port ball valve below the OEM valve). I stock replacement OEM valves.
Much more recently have had the float assembly removed twice, both times it would not shut off the burner. The first time the chamber was full of rust and crud (as expected from the age). The second time the float was stuck to the top of the chamber. Probably could have nudged the float loose from the pressuretrol tapping but I wanted to inspect it inside.
For me it is easy to take apart and clean. Be careful of the sylphon cleaning and tightening the screws that secure the switch it is plastic or Bakelite and will break, barley snug is plenty.
Dirty, messy job but so much cheaper that having someone replace it for $$$$ (although I would just do it myself if needed, still expensive). I've even made my own gasket from silicone sheet material for easier service.
Many Youtube videos if you want to watch someone else disassemble it and here is a cutaway video here.
109A_5
Re: Flow too slow ?
Well guess what, they were , it's flowing much better, not a ton , but the gauge is bouncing at 1/4 GPM. And the return temp jumped right away..
I forgot about those screens.
hunter29