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Re: System 2000 Energy Manager
@BenW Watching your video, you definitely have something else going on there with the zone outputs. If you email me at jszwed@energykinetics.com we can go over a couple things to try and understand what is happening.
szwedj
Re: System 2000 Energy Manager
The flashing 140-150 light is a feature added to the last generation of our digital managers (the ones with the led temperature bars) vs the newer display managers (that use an lcd display instead). It indicates a circulation issue on the boiler. Assuming you have the most typical installation with a plate heat exchanger mounted in the boilers bypass circuit, the most common cause for the 140/150 error is that the boiler side of the plate het exchanger has become plugged up and needs to be removed and flushed or replaced.
The way it works is when the manager receives a call for heat or hot water, the boiler preheats to a certain temperature before it starts heating the calling zone. It also expects the water to heat up to a minimum temperature within a certain time. If it exceeds that minimum time, it will go into this 140/150 mode and it will cycle the heating zones to allow hot water to flow through the system in the event that the plate heat exchanger is restricted or plugged. If after cycling the zones it senses the water temperature has risen above that minimum, the system will stay in this mode and continue to operate providing heat and hot water.
Cycling the system power on the left side of the junction box should clear the error, but if the condition still exists, it will return.
szwedj
System 2000 Energy Manager
Hey Guys, thanks for your time.
My system just started doing this. No loose connection that I can see. Circulation pump for the hot water tank seams a little louder than usual but it doesnt stay on long enough to find out. Power cycling doesnt fix the issue. It flashes 140-150f back and forth. Any ideas? Any questions my way that might help. Really appreciate it. https://youtube.com/shorts/FC_foO7N2Oc?si=eK7FTmvaNjcj00WB
BenW
Re: iron sediment in flat plate heat exchanger
Take it to a radiator repair shop, they will cook it clean in their tanks.
Is it a brazed or bolted type?
hot_rod
Re: Excited about Boiler Design
@hot_rod yes, I would never recommend electric resistance heat as a primary heat source, at least not here in the Northeast. But that little 1500 watt fake stove warms the tiny kitchen right up for a half hour while I make coffee, and the 25 cents it costs me to run it once in a while doesn't hurt. Also, those things are super portable, easy to move to a cold spot, and easy to store in the basement in summer.
Can't believe I'm praising what is essentially a large hair dryer with a fake flame here, but when you need a little extra portable heat now and then, you can't beat it with a stick.
jesmed1
Re: Longest lasting steam radiator vent
As far as Harbor freight goes I get it. I have bought junk there and I found some decent stuff there.
Depends on what you use it for.
A homeowner may pick up a pipe wrench he will use once or twice a year at Harbor Freight. I wouldn't blame him for not buying a Rigid with the $$$ they get for them. A professional who uses his tools hard every day will spend the $$$ for a Rigid and be better off for it. It will last a lifetime.
Companies get around thing's different ways. "Made in USA" can mean different things. Parts can be made anywhere and assembled in the USA for instance.
6yo NTI TFT 154 Gas/Hot Water Boiler throwing error codes (Chicago area)
Starting this morning I noticed that the heat was down a few degrees and checked on the boiler.
On the Control Snapshot screen it displayed:
Lockout 109: Ignition failure occurred
Alert 448: Flame too low
Alert 293: Abnormal recycle, Flame was lost early in run
Alert 291: Abnormal recycle, Flame was not on at end of ignition period
Alert 449: Modulation rate was limited due to flame strength
I originally thought this was due to a dirty flame sensor so I cleaned it with steel wool and it fired up normally. I also cleaned the condensate drain for good measure. When I returned home this evening the lockout 109 and alerts 291/449 were present.
I cleared the lockout and alerts and it's been working fine for the last 4 hours, but it's clear I need to do some more work.
I'd love to get some input with this situation on likely causes. Hoping it's as simple as a faulty flame rod and I can have it delivered by Tuesday.
(alert 448/449 refers to lockout 138 but that lockout never triggered)
Re: [urgent] Is there a way to limit maximum firing rate for Lochinvar Knight boiler?
you can in fact change the temperature the boiler run on a DHW call. Factory default is 180, I don’t remember the adjustment range.
If you had an indirect with dual coils, or a high output HeatFlo, you could generate DHW and tun low enough to condense.
Same with adding an external plate HX. With a close approach HX design the B side can get within a few degrees of the SWT.
Generate 120 DHW with 125 supply, for example. A plate HX is a much more efficient way to exchange temperature.
It’s the key to the EK efficiency, the plate HX for DHW.
hot_rod
Re: can the wrong nozzle size cause damper to blow off on oil-fired boiler?
I got this @Jamie Hall
Electrode / ignition adjustment is important on an oil burner.
There are several factors when it comes to proper oil burner adjustment. the first part is to make sure that the electrodes of the ignition system are not too close to the oil spray. This could cause carbon from the oil to form a bridge across the electrodes, leaving no room for a spark. Next you need to be sure that the electrodes are not too far away from the oil spray. That will cause the spark to not reach the oil spray and no ignition or delayed ignition will happen. Delayed ignition means that there is more oil in the combustion chamber by the time the spark reaches the oil spray and causes a larger that normal expansion of the flue gasses to happen. This larger than normal expansion in the chamber can push a large amount of pressure in the vent pipe and cause the barometric draft control to pop out of the opening and end up on the floor.
The next thing is to have the correct air to fuel ratio. If there is too much air, that excess air can blow the flame out while it is trying to ignite. that is anothe reason for delayed ignition. A good oil burner tech can easily make the correct adjustments. A rookie may still need to learn what the wrong adjustments can result in.
