Best Of
Re: Ecobee pro rebooting
In most smart thermostats, R or Rc is the terminal that goes to power up the onboard computer. C is the return path from that onboard computer to the power source. So you need to connect RC and C to the same transformer to get the thermostat to boot up properly.
Now depending on how the manufacturer sets up the internal components, you may or may not need RH in order to connect the W on the thermostat to the burner control(s) I'm not sure how you thermostat is designed, so the model number of that thermostat will help me locate the technical documents online.
OR
see if the RC to RH jumper wire does the trick.
Re: Ecobee pro rebooting
Hope it works now! Someday I'm going to take one of those things apart and find out what goes on inside. I know on the Honeywells that both Rc and Rh must be powered for the system to operate, but not necessarily with the same power source, but that they share a return connection ( C ). I think — but I'm not sure — that the internal battery is powered by whatever power source is connected between Rh and C, and the other heating side outputs are switched between the output and Rh. The cooling side outputs are switched between the output and Rc,
Re: Questions about Dan's "How to set a Pressuretrol" post
On some two pipe systems — Most "vapour" systems — there is or at least was once a gadget which kept the differential pressure between the steam main at the boiler and the dry return at the boiler from rising above a certain value — typically 8 ounces differential.
Several reasons for that, all of them good. If there are orifices or calibrated inlet valves, that's what they are set for. It prevents excess differential pressure on the traps and thus avoids damage. And you don't need any more than that.
However, that also means that any boiler pressure over 8 ounces gauge doesn't do anything additional to provide heat out in the radiation — all the extra fuel is doing is compressing the steam in the entire system. A complete waste of time.
So… if you have a vapour steam system, the vapourstat must cutout at or below 8 ounces gauge, There is no point, however, in setting the cutin too low — might just as well fire up again as soon as you can — so a differential of 4 ounces or so works just fine.
Now before someone starts commenting that the pressure control is a safety, not a control, I beg to differ — with an additional comment. The vapourstat set as above is very definitely a control, not a safety, and is used to modulate the effective firing rate of the boiler, since most steam boilers do not modulate otherwise (some coal fired boilers could, and did — but that's another topic). You also need a safety for overpressue, however, and that should be a pressuretrol — preferably a manual reset one, so someone will have to find out why the vapourstat didn't work — set at some reasonable pressure, such as around 2 to 3 psig.
Re: Ecobee pro rebooting
What is the model number of the Ecobee? There is a reason for the problem, it could be in the initial setup of the thermostat, It could be that RC and RH need to be jumped together, I would need to read the manual. I can find the manual online if I had the exact model number ot your thermostat.
Re: Getting my 1924 system going again
And just a side note - if the system is really at slightly over 7 psi, that's roughly the static head from the 2nd floor. It's roughly 15 to 18 feet higher than the boiler pressure gauge. And 2.31 feet per psi, that's 18 / 2.31 = 7.8 psi.
Re: Inefficient boiler heats basement. Should I keep basement door open or closed during winter?
They never fail during mild weather but always when bad weather is upon you. I need one NOW is never cheap and always rushed.
Start the process, get it sized properly, have the contractor chosen and get it done while there's time to do it properly.
Re: Tricks of the trade?
I started "tinting" my PVC glue many yrs ago because of the sloppy mess purple primer makes. Mad Dog
Re: CIPP Health Risks/Sporadic Sewer Odor/CI Durability
@Jamie Hall Could that 'floor drain' be instead a hole in buried 70 yr old cast iron pipe, about 25 feet of which is buried in cement? We have also found that when they built the house trap they built access pit very small 11x7 x15D. The fresh air inlet is accessible but the hub that the outward trap flows into is buried in cement. But in case you say that's not it, then I'll have to look at the original house drawings—though from 1924 to 1955, house was on a septic tank. Perhaps if THAT was incorrectly sealed that could be the odor source, but why only occasionally? I should get this cleared up before the sewer lining.
Re: Lochinvar Knight Boiler Flame Fail Ignition Errors - ready to pull my hair out
I think plus or minus depends on which port you are using since I think it measures differential between the 2 ports.
Does the tag on the appliance regulator say what the factory setting is? That looks a lot like what you would set it for for natural gas.