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Re: Hydrotherm issues
@hankwylerjr, thanks for the update. Looks like you did everything you could to get the heater going. I just wonder how that soot started to accumulate… (Oops, this is a gas heater, they burn clean and don't make soot, according to the natural gas folks) carbon started to accumulate? Did you look at the boiler room for signs that you are getting enough combustion air? An open basement with sufficient cubic footage and reasonable amount of infiltration is all most gas boilers in basements need. But there are specific minimums that often get overlooked when someone refinishes a basement with insulation, paneling, and a drop ceiling. (or just seals up the home to make it more efficient) That open floor plan basement now becomes a comfortable living space with a heating appliance tucked into a confined space that can not provide enough combustion air resulting in SOOT on the HX.
Other reasons that carbon can start to form on a HX are:
- The dryer vent from a natural gas clothes dryer is too close to the air intake of the burners.
- The dryer vent from any type of clothes dryer is allowing dust and lint to block combustion air openings on the burners.
- Wildlife in combustion venting system, air intake or exhaust
- Combustion fan (if equipped) is not performing to specifications. Motor running slow or debris on the fan blades.
- someone placed a box or other items too close to the combustion air intake of the burner.
There are too many things to list here. The bottom line is that carbon starts to accumulate when there is insufficient air for combustion, as the carbon builds up over time (days, weeks or months) and another carbon atom attaches to it, eventually the build up becomes part of the restriction. Even if the original cause of the insufficient combustion air is removed, once the blockage is there in the HX, it becomes self sustaining and self perpetuating, until it eventually goes from plenty of room for combustion to completely blocked in a matter of minutes.
Whenever I see soot, I look for the reason. The reason is there somewhere. It’s our job to find it.
Re: Hydrotherm issues
@EdTheHeaterMan thx for the detailed explanation, yes I am a plumber, a licensed and insured plumbing contractor, semi retired Any who, I don’t routinely work on these boilers. This morning I returned to the call. I took apart the vent and all the connections and top of the jacket.,I used my soot saw and brushes and throughly cleaned the exchanger. I had 2 inches of soot at the bottom, no pictures today the cellar was a complete disaster and carbon was everywhere. Used the respirator and was done in an hour. Job ran under 3 hours total I reassembled the unit and after changing out the old lux pro thermostat that was also bad I fired the boiler up. Although the flame was yellow due to the particles in the room it stayed on and she started getting heat within 40 minutes. I also cleaned out the vent and ran my Milwaukee drain camera to the roof it was clear but I recommend to install a ss liner asap due to the breakdown of the mortar. Had my brother in law the master HVAC technician bring his combustion analyzer over he ran the tests and he advised me that all have passed. Checked for co and natural gas leaks as I do every job all passed. Stayed another 30 minutes to ensure proper operation and passed handed the customer a modest invoice for our time she was happy now to install a new chimney liner in our parts in several grand but that’s not our job
Re: Ecobee pro rebooting
In most smart thermostats, R or Rc is the terminal that goes to power up the onboard computer. C is the return path from that onboard computer to the power source. So you need to connect RC and C to the same transformer to get the thermostat to boot up properly.
Now depending on how the manufacturer sets up the internal components, you may or may not need RH in order to connect the W on the thermostat to the burner control(s) I'm not sure how you thermostat is designed, so the model number of that thermostat will help me locate the technical documents online.
OR
see if the RC to RH jumper wire does the trick.
Re: Ecobee pro rebooting
Hope it works now! Someday I'm going to take one of those things apart and find out what goes on inside. I know on the Honeywells that both Rc and Rh must be powered for the system to operate, but not necessarily with the same power source, but that they share a return connection ( C ). I think — but I'm not sure — that the internal battery is powered by whatever power source is connected between Rh and C, and the other heating side outputs are switched between the output and Rh. The cooling side outputs are switched between the output and Rc,
Re: Questions about Dan's "How to set a Pressuretrol" post
On some two pipe systems — Most "vapour" systems — there is or at least was once a gadget which kept the differential pressure between the steam main at the boiler and the dry return at the boiler from rising above a certain value — typically 8 ounces differential.
Several reasons for that, all of them good. If there are orifices or calibrated inlet valves, that's what they are set for. It prevents excess differential pressure on the traps and thus avoids damage. And you don't need any more than that.
However, that also means that any boiler pressure over 8 ounces gauge doesn't do anything additional to provide heat out in the radiation — all the extra fuel is doing is compressing the steam in the entire system. A complete waste of time.
So… if you have a vapour steam system, the vapourstat must cutout at or below 8 ounces gauge, There is no point, however, in setting the cutin too low — might just as well fire up again as soon as you can — so a differential of 4 ounces or so works just fine.
Now before someone starts commenting that the pressure control is a safety, not a control, I beg to differ — with an additional comment. The vapourstat set as above is very definitely a control, not a safety, and is used to modulate the effective firing rate of the boiler, since most steam boilers do not modulate otherwise (some coal fired boilers could, and did — but that's another topic). You also need a safety for overpressue, however, and that should be a pressuretrol — preferably a manual reset one, so someone will have to find out why the vapourstat didn't work — set at some reasonable pressure, such as around 2 to 3 psig.
Re: Ecobee pro rebooting
What is the model number of the Ecobee? There is a reason for the problem, it could be in the initial setup of the thermostat, It could be that RC and RH need to be jumped together, I would need to read the manual. I can find the manual online if I had the exact model number ot your thermostat.
Re: Getting my 1924 system going again
And just a side note - if the system is really at slightly over 7 psi, that's roughly the static head from the 2nd floor. It's roughly 15 to 18 feet higher than the boiler pressure gauge. And 2.31 feet per psi, that's 18 / 2.31 = 7.8 psi.
Re: Inefficient boiler heats basement. Should I keep basement door open or closed during winter?
They never fail during mild weather but always when bad weather is upon you. I need one NOW is never cheap and always rushed.
Start the process, get it sized properly, have the contractor chosen and get it done while there's time to do it properly.