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Re: Is my plumbing wrong

Do these radiators heat at all ? Which ones were you troubleshooting for no heat ?

What does this Trap look like ?

Is this Trap the one that is pictured above?

What is the height of this loop seal ?

109A_5

1

Re: Lochinvar WB80 not lighting, many new parts already. SOLVED

In the wiring diagram I was looking at some of the wire colors seemed to not match your pictures. So I looked at some older manual versions. Interestingly the jumper circled in Red and then in the Red box on the wiring diagram is in the circuit that supplies power to the Gas Valve, it was a Manual Reset High Limit in another version. And you were just moving things around up there, I would inspect that jumper closely and maybe take a voltage measurement at and just past that part of the circuit.

Also it appears the circuit common is bonded to chassis ground (Green boxes).

109A_5

1

Re: Lochinvar WB80 not lighting, many new parts already. SOLVED

109A_5 - Thank you for the additional info, I'll need to spend some time reading.

First an update. Last night (Tuesday) after I had got those disappointing numbers I spent some time poking around the cabinet trying to see what else it could be. The only wires I hadn't yet disconnected and redid were these to the top of the heat exchanger for the flue temp, and the two inlet/outlet temp sensors. Unplugged - replugged, wiggle the wires and hit Reset.

It fired up!

I let it run for a couple hours to heat the DHW and then watched it switch to SH. We've been using some portable space heaters to keep warm and outside temps have moderated so after it reached "Standby" and shut itself off I turned off the power. It was late at night/bedtime, I didn't want to take the time to run through the setup on the new control board (time/date/temp set-points,etc.) and wasn't sure what parameters might be pre-loaded on the board. Could it over-heat?

When I went to fire it up again today it failed. "No Flame Ign" Unplugged the sensors again, tried cleaning with the electric contact cleaner, wiggle wires, hit Reset. Fired up. OK good, but while I went to my laptop for the service manual it shut down. No go since.

All those wires look perfect, the connectors are clean, connection at board are good. Was it just a coincidence it fired up?

Like I said I'll study the info above. Again the board is new, the secondary board looks fine (I had already checked that a while ago) wires are all solid, connections are tight.

One thing I would note, during those couple times when it did fire up I heard a sort of fluttering sound coming from the Air Pressure Switch during ignition. Have never heard that sound during all failed ignition attempts. The puck (PRS20015) has a 2.50 wc (IIRC), I have no way to check that. All I did was gently suck on it to check if the contact closed. If I simply pulled the tube from the intake off the puck the unit threw a "APS Open" code. Any chance it could be sticking or something? The fact that it's not making any noise during failed ignition attempts seems significant?

Thank you very much for suggestions and help!

ColdCanuck

1

Re: Estimated life expectancy?

When we moved in it had already been redone as a preheat loop going into the electric water heater. It probably saved some electricity in winter months but not worth the extra effort.

danmayer175

1

Re: Cast iron radiator output tables are wrong?

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1846590#Comment_1846590

I thought I had explained this in my response. The heat capacity of the water and cast iron in the system is enormous compared to the heating load, the output of the radiators or the output of the boiler. This causes significant time shifting between the output of the boiler and the output of the radiators.

It's like pulling on a slinky attached to a weight. The weight moves from your pull, but delayed.

No information that you've provided is inconsistent with the belief that the radiators are in fact putting out their rated output. It squares with the reported run time of the boiler and with the total fuel consumption.

DCContrarian

1

Re: Is my pump too big. Circulator velocity noise.

So, to quickly answer your question about a smaller circ, the 007e is a variable speed delta P circ, so it is running slower based upon the system that is connected to it such as yours with 1/2".

There are times I hear harmonics in the pipes in a house and sometimes the quickest and easiest fix is adding a pipe clamp on a long run that you can see and rteach

Dave H_2

1

Re: Return/Condensate pump questions

The switch shown in the picture is a common mechanical linkage type float switch. There are adjustable semi-circular stops on the linkage dial that set the start and stop points.

As others have said above, most common cause of short cycling condensate pump is leaking pump discharge check valve, followed by improperly adjusted float switch linkage.

Looks to me like some of the return line piping feeding this pump's receiving tank is below the tank's inlet. If true, you have a water seal in this return line which prevents the system from venting air. Is there any other form of venting air from these return lines?