Best Of
Re: Main bathroom ceiling opinions
I'm in the process of a kitchen renovation. Ceiling was grid/tiles from a previous leak upstairs. Since we had the ceiling open, I decided to do the bathroom above also. Everything is sheetrock, going forward, although we did a lot of furring down to get flat in this 140 year-old house. There are some tin staple-up ceiling panels that look good. Depends on the look you're going for. Access not needed, unless you're using Sharkbites. ha! :-)
Re: Main bathroom ceiling opinions
Suspended ceiling is also a poor barrier to fire, insects, rodents, and air infiltration. Just renew the plumbing and drywall it.
Run conduit to the outlets and run it to an accessible area so you can pull new wiring if needed.
mattmia2
Re: Troubleshooting a mystery... leak/flow reported with no physical leak found. Expansion Tank/Indirect
Is the boiler relief valve or the backflow preventer piped to a drain? One of these could be discharging water during a boiler run cycle and the evidence (water) is going down the drain so you would not see it.
Re: treatment chemical for steam boiler
The key to any chemical additive being used to control pH is a little perhaps not so fundamental chemistry. They are all buffers. That is the description of a chemical combination of compounds — such the sodium carbonate/sodium bicarbonate/carbonic acid series — which has certain pH ranges in which the pH changes very little in response to other things — such as dissolved carbon dioxide — which try to push it around. What happens with adding a buffer when one wasn't present previously is the pH will change fairly quickly with small amounts of addition until it reaches the buffering range. Additional buffer additions at that point will result in only small changes in pH. To use numbers: let us suppose we have a buffer with a stable range of 8.5 to 9.0, and our initial condition is around 6, but no buffer present (not an unusual situation for well water). We add some buffer, and let's suppose for argument that we find that four teaspoons brings us to 8.5. We are now "in range" for that buffer and that water chemistry — and adding four more teaspoons will do almost nothing. And four more. And four more. And… we can add the whole dang box and maybe drive it to close to 9.0
Problem. In doing so, we also raise the total dissolved solids of the water, and that has bad effects.
Bottom line. If you feel the need to add a buffer — Rectorseal, Surge-X, whatever — add just enough to get your water in range — and then stop. Don't add any more! You have to test after each addition — a chemist would murmer about titration and inflection points, which is designed to impress the laity — but the idea is… add a little. Test. Add a little more. Test. In range? STOP!
Re: Main bathroom ceiling opinions
Exact same boat here. I put these in one bathroom and my kitchen/dining room which had previously had busted plaster, then stapled-up fiberboard panels, then finally suspended ceiling. I tore out the suspended ceiling and the fiberboard, then put these "tin" (really steel) panels up, they are nice. If I need to get up there, it won't be super fun, but it won't be a disaster like repaired plaster would have been. The holes are still in the plaster to access the plumbing.
My ceilings had furring strips installed to hold the 1 foot fiberboard panels. I left those in place to nail up the "tin" panels.
Re: Supply valve stuck and radiator cold
Its a butterfly valve and it is in the open position … Something else is the problem…
Big Ed_4
Re: Supply valve stuck and radiator cold
It's a stop to limit the valve to half a turn.
Seems the knob is stripped.
Re: WM QB-180 maintenance ??
I actually have a hard copy manual somewhere. I'll see if I can dig it up and post some pics of the guideline settings. Might take a few days. Its time to clean out the shed anyway.
HVACNUT