Best Of
Re: She canna take any more, Cap'n! She's gonna blow!
That was installed last fall so I don't think that's the problem right now.
Re: Need help balancing steam system
To check the pitch, measure down from the underside of the floor (ceiling) overhead if you can. It's usually more accurate than measuring up from a basement floor.
Re: Vapor balancing? Dead Men question.
Others i think vent the mains through the emitters and the dry returns which probably works ok because the mains are much smaller than in 1 pipe systems.
mattmia2
Re: She canna take any more, Cap'n! She's gonna blow!
You don't have enough air in your expansion tank
Chang your procedure for adding Air to the tank as follows.
Here are the steps I followed:
- Shut off power to boiler.
- Close the valve from the boiler to the tank.
- Close the valve from the water supply to the tank.
- Open the valve below the tank and drain the tank.
Open the Airtol fitting and also the valve to the water supply.Fast fill the tank until water starts to come out of the Airtrol.Close the valve to the water supply and close the Airtrol.Set the desired pressure in the tank using a Schraeder valve connected to the bottom of the tank.- Close the valve that drained the expansion tank
- Open the valve from the boiler to the expansion tank
and the valve to the water supply.- Allow the automatic water feed to get the system pressure up to 12 PSI (needed to fill those third floor radiators)
- Restore power to boiler.
If you have 100 gallons of water at 40° and you heat that water to 200° you end up with about 104 gallons of water. The air in the expansion tank is where that extra water goes. If there is only enough room for 4 gallons of water in that tank then the air will compress to 100 PSI or more. If there is 8 gallons of air space in that tank, then the opressure may only rise to 35 PSI. (still to high for that relief valve). But if you have 15 gallons of air in that tank then the 4 extra gallons of water will compress that 15 gallons of air to maybe 18 PSI (because there is more air to compress) so if there is 18 or 19 gallons of air space in that tank, the pressure will only rise from 12 to maybe 16 PSI.
The more air in the tank the lower the pressure will be when the water gets hot. The only thing you need to do is add air to the expansion tank.
By the way @pecmsg was referring the the pre-charged expansion tanks. You don't have one of them, so you would be confused by his statement. It does not apply to your system.
Re: Bypass for a Buderus G115/3 boiler?
The best way is lay out a heat loss calculation . Beyond that , you are on your own :)
Big Ed_4
Re: Turning off 1-pipe radiator valves.
Thanks, Jamie. I did the best I could. Now I’m watching with my feet up. 😉
Re: sizing copper pipe
Here's your exact comparison courtesy of Amerigas:
- 1 cubic foot of propane produces 2516 BTU, and 1 cubic foot of natural gas produces 1030 BTU.
- 1 gallon of propane produces 91,452 BTU, and 1 gallon of natural gas produces 85,098 BTU.
LRCCBJ
Re: New boiler - pipe noise / surging
3 Inch keeps getting kicked around. I don't see any reducers and the 90 looks like 2 inch to me.
I agree with @dabrakeman, was this drip in used with the old boiler and it has been abandoned with this install. there may be condensate sitting in that part of the main causing hammer.
Not seeing a lot of supports on the piping, could be a sag somewhere too trapping condensate.
109A_5
Re: Turning off 1-pipe radiator valves.
I think the one-pipe-steam valve should be exercised once at the start of each heating season, and then again in the spring. Otherwise, it should be left open. It’s a service valve, not a control valve. If the radiator is too hot, cover it.
Re: Turning off 1-pipe radiator valves.
We all know that, @DanHolohan —you're preaching to the choir. What @JohnNY needs is for you to come and preach to the nave!
