Best Of
Apartment Building 1924
From 1955 until 1960, I lived as a child in a five story apartment building in the Bronx, NY. My uncle was the building superintendent, so I had access to the boiler room. I remember the huge boiler and the pile of coal that fired it then. I am not knowledgeable in HVAC. My son is an apprentice plumber, and he and I have been discussing plumbing and HCAV things. I am reading Dan's "We Got Steam" and that got me thinking of the boiler and radiators in my old apartment in New York. An Internet search, reveals that that building was built in 1924, and has 34 apartments. I have no particular question, but am wondering what you pros tell me about the heating system in that old building. One-pipe? Was coal fired, but now likely gas? Any other comments, technical or otherwise? Just curious about that old building's system. Thanks for any thoughts and comments.
Re: Christmas Wishing for a Warm Classroom
Thank you all for your helpful thoughts and suggestions.
@mattmia2 My classroom is only one floor above the boiler. I'd like to think the debris was the result of a one-time flood, not a chronic problem.
My initial cleaning out of the trap today didn't get the steam flowing, but I didn't have anything but pencils and wrenches at hand. I'll bring some better tools for cleaning the trap tomorrow and see if we can get some steam flowing through.
I'm afraid the school wouldn't look kindly on what would be seen as "tinkering" with school property, so I'm reluctant to share this investigation with the principal or superintendent. But if I can fix the radiator with some knowhow from you all and little work on my part, I still feel I ought to try.
Forest
Re: Replace missing radiator
Another option would be to run a hot water loop to the area off of the water in the bottom of the boiler.
mattmia2
Re: Buderus G115 Strangeness
Strange.
I wonder if something is interrupting the burner operation? But you said it is running constantly. The heat must be going somewhere.
Re: Riser, Header, Main pipe sizing
I don't think we've had anyone from this forum at our place yet for a bid. I suspect if we did, we'd be impressed with their knowledge compared to who's been through alreadyWhat about Dave Bunnell?
Is he coming out?
ChrisJ
Re: Riser, Header, Main pipe sizing
Thanks. The Utica can get us an extra $350 for Energy credit since it's over 83% efficient and was $800 cheaper then the WMC, while the WMC & Peerless were around 81-82% efficient. Not a big deal in the long run, I guess. Any other reccomendations that might be 83% efficient?Part of the struggle everyone is having on this thread is the fact that you seem to be doubting your decisions and waffleing back and forth on what you should do. You locked in on the WM and now, for a mear $350.00 in one time energy credits, you are wanting to buy a boiler (the Utica) that we've all told you has its own set of issues with those side riser tappings and the LWCO probe location. Even though it is also $800.00cheaper than the WM, I always say "you get what you pay for" The design of the two boilers is an apples/oranges comparison. Here are the facts:
The WMC EG75 only had one riser tapping, but at 3 in, that may be enough? Or is that tapping size irrelevant if we can up-size any of them to 4 inches anyway?
- The WM is the better, long term solution for you compared to the Utica.
- The WM EG75 does have two tappings
- The WM will be delivered broken down so as to be more manageable and not damage any panels/skins.
- A drop Header is, by far and away the better option for nice dry steam AND for more head room to connect mains.
- The Risers out of the boiler should be the full boiler tapping size
- The Header (Drop or conventional) should be at least one full size larger than the risers. If you want to go 2 sizes larger, that is even better.
- Per our prior post, now is the time to get that Bull Head Tee out of the equation and tie the two mains directly into the Header.
- If you haven't signed a contract with an installer, call one of the guys that have been recommended in this thread. If you have a contractor, get everything you've been advised to do here, in writing and in the contract.
You have to make a decision and move on to the next phase, ordering and installation.
Fred
Wildly off topic. Or is it?
I've just finished reading the complete NTSB report on the container ship collision with the Key Bridge in Baltimore.
Don't bother — it's long. But…
Turns out the root cause was that a signal wire was not fully inserted into a connector, creating an occasional loose connection which looked fine but wasn't.
Moral of the story for all and sundry. If you have unexplained intermittent failures in an electrical circuit — check all your connections! They may look fine, but… pull on them. Wiggle them. Look again.
Before you fire the parts cannon (or knock down a bridge?)
Re: Riser, Header, Main pipe sizing
Tell him to install a boiler.
Problem solved.
ChrisJ
Re: Odd ignition failure - temporary fixed by turning gas main off/on.
Could be moisture in the propane tank icing up the regulator. Propane starts out as liquid. When the pressure is reduced it flashes into a gas and acts just like a refrigerant and it boils off it can freeze any moisture in the pipe or regulators. It usually happens in the regulators as that is where the pressure drop is. Shutting of and turning on the gas maybe unsticking the regulator.
Its a guess but it is possible.