Best Of
Re: deleting unused steam riser
That will work just fine. I'd be very much inclined to firmly anchor the pipe you are keeping, so it can't possibly sag or slip, before I took out the riser overhead.
Re: Best system for Duplex I’m purchasing
I was building a 4 plex a while back. Cold climate with hot muggy summers with cheap gas and electricity. Went with ducted heat pumps for each unit simply because we need cooling. The cost delta between a cold climate heat pump and AC only is a couple of dollars and install is the same. Saved having to do gas work, venting and any plumbing.
Top unit has a 1.5ton unit, sandwitch floors 1 ton. No issues with heat. Each place has a small ERV with the fresh air connected to the intake and exhaust from the bath (so no bath fan needed).
Each unit is sub metered so they pay for their own use. More important, everybody has their own thermostat. Operating cost is very low comparable to a place with gas since there is no gas meter fees.
Did install oversized filters so can get 2 years out of one.
Kaos
Re: Swing Joints on Oil Tank Fill/Vent Lines - Which configuration?
I haven't been near any oil for decades.
But have done a fair amount of threaded piping and avoid street fittings whenever possible.
For one thing if you are going for swing joints, by not using a street 90, rather nipple and 90, you gain another set of threads for the swing and alinement.
Plus streets are a pain to tighten to land them in the correction orientation.
Re: Question about swing joints
Swing joints are usually in the discussion on oil piping with underground oil tanks.
In residential underground tanks the tank was just set on the dirt and it could settle after the piping was installed.
On commercial with large 10,000 gallon tanks (a common size when I was installing them) the tanks were usually set on a concrete pad with anchor rods with hold down anchors set in the slab.
The slabs were designed (hopefully) to hold the tank down with an empty tank and high ground water. Not an easy task.
All the old specs specified all the piping needed double swing joints (3 elbows) to allow the tank to settle,
Some jobs you don't forget. Gardner Jr High School Gardner, MA I set a 20,000 gallon tank. The tank was delivered during the winter and the engineers would specify primer on the tank at the factory. It would come in on a low bed trailer as a 20,000 is pretty high. The trailer would come with just the driver with a bunch of old tires. He would roll that huge tank off the trailer by himself and land it on the old tires so it couldn't roll away.
We were a sub so our job was to supply the oil burners and the tank for the Mechanical contractor to install. We also were "supposed to" paint the tank after delivery because some paint would get scraped off during unloading.
Try painting a tank in the winter with frozen snow and frozen mud on it😂😂😂😂
The reason I remember this job was not the painting but the day we set the tank in the hole they had 3 huge pumps pumping groundwater out of the hole and an oil truck on site to fill the tank as soon as it was set. Once the tank was set (picture a round tank on a flat slab) the had 6 guys in the hole shoveling concrete into the bottom curve between the tank and slab to make the pad heavier.
I often wondered if it floated!!!!
Re: repairing a neglected chimney, flue, thimble, liner, and leaks
That is exactly what I said BOB. But I forgot most of technical parts. 🤣🤣🤣
Re: ADVICE/IDEAS NEEDED! 3 Commercial Hot Water Heaters
you water is pretty hard, that will shorten tank life
What is the hot water demand in gpm, that is how you size the piping?
What temperature do you maintain?
Tankless water heaters are very common in hotels now, for efficiency and continuous dhw
If you go with a stainless tank or tankless you want to test for chlorides
Is there a laundry on property ?
Softening the hot water helps fixtures and soap consumption, also
hot_rod
Re: Wiring a CK-63 Field Controller to a Centennial / Williamson Oil Furnace Model CHB-105-DD-S2
This should work too.
Re: Wiring a CK-63 Field Controller to a Centennial / Williamson Oil Furnace Model CHB-105-DD-S2
Thank you Ed. The CK-63 is already set up for 120V AC, not 24V. So I think I will try to splice the orange wire between the burner controller and the burner motor, which is to be connected to the T1and T3 terminals in the CK-63 board. I will do this tomorrow and let you know how it works. The thermostat connection comes from the three zone Honeywell controller and directly to the burner.
Re: Installing new bathroom zone on a pretty screwed up system
That bathroom zone is way too small for such a big boiler even on low fire. The simplest is to tag it onto the main main distribution right by it with a small local pump+thermostat.
If you want to run it back to the main manifold, you can but have to add a buffer or you would have to add some logic so the zone never runs on its own.
Simplest would be a relay driven by the boiler circ in series with the bathroom zone circ power. This way the even if the bath is calling for heat, it would only run the circ if another zone is running.
Also watch those Radiantech pipes are usually not oxygen barrier. You have to watch what you connect up to it as it can't be steel. Not sure if the Weismann will like it either.
I also see mixing valves there. With a modcon, you never want to be mixing. Set the outdoor curve so the zones have good runtimes without any mix. This is basically free fuel savings with no drawback.
Kaos
Re: Installing new bathroom zone on a pretty screwed up system
It sounded like you were adding a new bath. If the issue is with existing not being hot enough, the solution is much simpler.
Add balancing valves to all the loops before the bath zone to restrict the flow. This will reduce how much heat gets to the bedrooms so the thermostat calls are longer and get more heat to the bath. Simple to do and doesn't require any new controls nor does it create micro zoning issues.
Kaos


