Best Of
Re: How can I seal a cast iron pipe besides trying to weld it?
The two part epoxy that Intplm and kcopp recommend works well for a few years, if you clean the surface with a grinding wheel first. Eventually the rusting crack pries the pipe open. There are fiberglass "casts" that are wet and wrap around the pipe that work very well. A plaster cast will work too, and is permitted in the NYC code (if the inspector doesn't laugh at you). None are permanent, as rust will always win and the pipe will continue to crack and leak again.
MadDog is right about the Diablo blade in a Sawzall. Cut out the bad section and replace it with new cast iron or PVC piping using no-hub (or Fernco if permitted) couplings. Then you're done.
Re: York Furnace - 3 Weeks & No Heat - What Parts?
This may help, I am very visual so sometimes finding videos help a little more. But yes to answer your question. You will not be putting it in series with the yellow wires. You will be doing something similar to what you tried earlier with that, except it will be going in series with the purple wire from the flame sensor in the back. Connect that female to the male lead off the switch and then the female lead will get connected onto the flame sensor.
PeteA
Re: York Furnace - 3 Weeks & No Heat - What Parts?
The video explains why it's important to have this switch operating properly and shows what happens to a propane systems flame when pressure does drop off but the safety does not cut the power to the circuit.
PeteA
Re: help me pick properly sized boiler
In the areas I've circled in red, does it say "Burnham" on everything? Couldn't see for sure on F. I think the height measurements are off. B, C, G, H should be 19" height, F should be 22" height. Is that correct? The center-to-center distance between each section (or rib as you call it) should be 1.5". I'm getting the following:
A: 1.6x24 = 38.4
B: 1.4x24 = 33.6
C: 1.4x24 = 33.6
D: 3.4x14 = 47.6
E: 3.4x6 = 20.4
F: 1.3x14 = 18.2
G: 1.4x26 = 36.4
H: 1.4x22 = 30.8
I: 3.4x8 = 27.2
Total = 286.2
@delcrossv already posted a link to the sheet you need:
I'm not a pro, but I have a few other questions: Just to confirm, did you actually see the leak in the cast iron section of the boiler or are you just assuming it's there based on the water consumption?
If the leak was visible, that means your boiler failed after only 8 years (even though the manufacture date code of 11/2013 puts the age at 11+). This is unusual and would make me suspect a water quality issue. Do you have a water softener?
Lastly, please post your current gas and heating oil rates. Price/therm and price/gallon.
Re: Boiler size confusion
Peerless gives you 3 different choices.
Use the smallest firing rate that will heat the house. Start small and move up if needed.
Re: Piping for New Steam Boiler
On another note, did you measure the EDR of all your rads? Including the ones you're putting back in? With all your drips, you really do not want to oversize the boiler. You may even want to cut back a little on the pickup factor.
Re: Piping for New Steam Boiler
As you're not venting mains through your dry returns, you don't need a ton of venting. As you're splitting the loop I'd think a Gorton #1 on each side would be fine. You're not evacuating the pipe, just the rads. In normal operation they should never close.
If you find the rads are filling more slowly than you'd like, it's easy enough to double them up later.
What are the mains size 3"?
You'll probably want a #2 at the end of each of those.
Re: Ridgid 65-RA (A for "ancient"?)
Yes, the 65-R can even survive Quagmire.
Just hose it down in brake kleen first and give it a fresh coating of threading oil. It'll be absolutely fine.
ChrisJ
Re: Where can a get an old style compression tank
Yes, and thanks to @EdTheHeaterMan for telling me about the built-in air separators in our Weil McLains. That's something I would never have known, because obviously you can't see how the insides of the castings are configured. And I couldn't find any schematics or cartoons of those separators in the Weil McLain literature even after Ed told me about them. So unless you know, you'd never know…if that makes any sense.
The other factor that was probably not helping our air separation was our low supply water temps. I've since programmed a night setback into our ecobees, so now the morning boiler runs last 60+ minutes and get the water good and hot, which should help bubble the air out inside the boilers.
jesmed1
Re: Where can a get an old style compression tank
That's how B&G specs it now. IAS /EAS to Airtrol. They don't even sell Airtrol boiler fittings anymore. WM has an air sep built in, I think Peerless too.