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Looking for ideas for future videos Please let me know
I want to provide videos to help you or your employees in the field and need your guidance. Are there any boiler training subjects you would like me to cover? Thanks for your input
Ray
Re: Pressure/Booster Pump for Residence with Low Water Pressure & Flow
Thank you all for your comments. Based on what has been posted, I am going to use the water supply that I have and live with it as marginally acceptable. Going to try to get better aerators and make sure the flow restrictors are clean . Thanks to all.
Re: Freeze Proof Sill Cock
None of my Woodford 17's have plastic handles.
I wouldn't like that either.
I'll be looking at Prier the next time I need one and consider them as well.
ChrisJ
Re: Rethinking a liner
First, the OP should read through the archives here. Tons on liners.
Still seeing a lot of misinformation on chimneys and liners. Urban legends and mis-reading codes.
Can someone please post pics of a single masonry chimney and flue that meets NFPA 211? Anyone? I'll wait.
As for the WM Gold boiler, you need a ss liner regardless of the condition of the chimney for: containing the byproducts of combustion, keeping the acidic flue gas condensate from attacking the alkaline mortar converting it into sand and salt so those soluble salts can migrate to attract water and hasten the death of the masonry, size the flue for a quick start, to stabilize the draft, and to allow the appliance to come closer to its stated efficiency (it never will).
You can read it here for free.
Re: "Water heater Autobooster."
I have no doubt that it will work — as a booster. On its own power supply. It will NOT work as a stand alone unit (and, to its credit, it doesn't say it will), or if it is on the same circuit as an electric water heater and has to switch off the electric so that it can run. At 2 gpm it will be capable of a temperature rise of about 20 degrees F, and no more.
Provide a nice independent 30 amp or 40 amp 240 volt circuit for it and it will give you that 20 degree F boost. An ingenious soul could put it on the outlet of an inadequate electric water heater and add a thermostatic mixing valve and get a few minutes more hot water from the system… but that's it.
Physics is such a nuisance sometimes.
Re: Freeze Proof Sill Cock
This Woodford had a solid brass stem. I soldered 3/8 hard drawn copper tube over it to make the extension.
The bib was already there, under the deck, I just extended it
hot_rod
Re: Heating zone/pump issue
That looks like a Navian combi boiler, not a tankless. The pump in the unit is the primary pump.
Assuming the return beside each zone pump is for that zone then it is proper primary secondary piping.
What is the issue with the system, is there no heat and DHW or neither works?
Kaos
Re: Heating zone/pump issue
I think I see a circ inside the boiler? If so that is the primary pump and it needs to run when any zone calls.
Tankless don't generally have a circ inside, are you sure it is not a boiler? Or a combi boiler.
The boiler is within the primary loop.
If the boiler circ is not running, the boiler will probably hit high limit quickly and shut down.
Now if those secondary circuits are not connected properly, supply and it's related return right next to it, (closely spaced tees) then it is more of a parallel loop, not P/S, and those circs would move some flow thru the boiler.
hot_rod
Re: New video Understanding Boiler Flame Signals
Always had trouble with flame rods and consider them unreliable. I have cleaned hundreds of them, cleaned the ground path, the flame rod, ran separate ground wires everything. Sometimes they work and then they don't.
Some controls like the Siemens LFL do not have test jacks and you have to wire your meter in series with the FR. Riello gave up on the flame rods and went to ultraviolet.
That being said a Flame rod is the safest flame detector because it uses the flame for circuit conductivity that is if you can get them to work. Rooftop MU air units frequently came with FR detection and didn't work well. I converted many to UV
Flame rods are only for gas, not oil.
Ultraviolet can be used on oil and gas but works better on oil which has more UV light.
I always found flame rod signals weak and erratic
Infrared (otherwise known as lead sulphide) works on oil or gas.
I have always found that the MFG recommended flame signals are on the low end. What they tell you is the minimum reliable signal is usually lower than what you need for reliable operation.
The signal also needs to be relatively steady. A higher signal that is erratic is worse than a lower steady signal.
It is also better to use an analog meter for flame signals. You can see the meter needle move. Some digital meters can't move fast enough to catch the low and high meter readings
