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Re: Cover-Tech Heat Pump Covers
The problem is the use of aluminum coils ... Nice set up...
Big Ed_4
1
Re: Water source heat pump piping
In both of the situations you quote, @WMno57 , there was almost certainly enough ground water movement so that you would be extracting heat primarily from the moving ground water, and not -- strictly speaking -- from the ground. And as we know, moving water is a grand way to move heat around! Particularly if Mother Nature does it for you...
So in those situations, it is likely that having all or part of the heat exchange grid pipes under the house world have worked quite well. Not any better than somewhere else on the property, but not much worse, either.
So in those situations, it is likely that having all or part of the heat exchange grid pipes under the house world have worked quite well. Not any better than somewhere else on the property, but not much worse, either.
Re: shut off valves turn but don't work
You can add a mini ball valve before the vent if this is one pipe steam

No air out = no steam in

No air out = no steam in
4
Re: The case of the backward flow, this Friday's case
Oh wow I was agreeing with earlier post about check valve assuming everything was piped correctly. Never would’ve thought of them stuck closed. Thanks everyone made me think here about things I would have not thought of . I’m still learning things every day
1
Re: The case of the backward flow, this Friday's case
@gerry gill Most welcome sir
@dko They didnt appear to be full of slide. I pushed in with my screwdriver and they were stuck closed
@SgtMaj I learned a lesson that day. Never assume. I get humbled regularly in this industry LOL
@dko They didnt appear to be full of slide. I pushed in with my screwdriver and they were stuck closed
@SgtMaj I learned a lesson that day. Never assume. I get humbled regularly in this industry LOL
Re: Old Toledo 1-A pipe threader
I used to thread pipe 10 hours a day, 5 days a week. Borderline OCD about it and every single one had to be perfect. When I started I compared my results to a domestic factory made nipple and domestic fittings. It is usually 2.5-3 full rotations you can do with just your fingers. I carry only SIAM made imported fittings, and they too are only 2.5-3 rotations. It varies more once you get into the cheaper imports.
Your tool is fine it seems. 4-5 is pretty high, would definitely aim lower. Unless you're talking about full grip hand and going as much as hard as you can without a wrench, but even then I'd want it at most 3.5-4. This also means you are thinning out the pipe that much more at the tip.
I use a ridgid 300 and 1224. Should never follow their guide lines. not accurate whatsoever. I'm always above or below the line a little. I can adjust it maybe 1/16" and its a difference of the nipple going all the way inside a fitting without resistance, only going half a turn, and just right. So your teeth wearing out even a little can make a huge difference.
Your tool is fine it seems. 4-5 is pretty high, would definitely aim lower. Unless you're talking about full grip hand and going as much as hard as you can without a wrench, but even then I'd want it at most 3.5-4. This also means you are thinning out the pipe that much more at the tip.
I use a ridgid 300 and 1224. Should never follow their guide lines. not accurate whatsoever. I'm always above or below the line a little. I can adjust it maybe 1/16" and its a difference of the nipple going all the way inside a fitting without resistance, only going half a turn, and just right. So your teeth wearing out even a little can make a huge difference.
2
Re: NEST With Two Wires
If anyone is interested, I believe the NEST uses a circuit basically like this to switch the R and W wires. N-Channel Mosfet Transistor. Very low trigger current compared to a coil of a relay or a TRIAC.
The NEST version is probably more complex since they may use the transistors to multiplex commands to the Nest Power Connector when used.

The NEST version is probably more complex since they may use the transistors to multiplex commands to the Nest Power Connector when used.

2
Re: Polaris hot water heater not bringing water up to temperature
Good catch, I remember now that Polaris shipped with intake air filters.
Probably save a lot of expensive mod con repairs, having an intake air filter. The mod con may even tell you when the filter is plugged and intake air blocked alert.
Probably save a lot of expensive mod con repairs, having an intake air filter. The mod con may even tell you when the filter is plugged and intake air blocked alert.
hot_rod
1
Re: Mitigating Point of use hot water wait time
Hi @scootersyme , There are a few things you can do. First is the reduce the volume of water between heater and point/s of use. 3/8" tubing is code, using appendix M in the UPC. This can go a long ways in speeding hot water delivery. If you have 60 psi and no long runs, 1/4" tube can give you 1.5 gpm and hot water in seconds. I've got the engineering document to verify this along with its compatibility with code. A different approach is to use demand controlled pumping. This approach requires you push a button or activate a motion sensor to prime the line with hot water. Another way is to use a small tank at the point of use, and have it be fed by the hot line. As long as the tank holds at least three times the volume of the line, you get steady hot water. The simplest and my favorite approach is a well insulated copper manifold directly on top of a tank, (so it stays full of hot water) and 3/8" or 1/4" tube from there to the points of use. This is "instanter" hot water than a tankless heater can provide 
Yours, Larry
Yours, Larry




