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Re: Black Pipe Measurements
Best way to do an end to center is to make the fitting onto the pipe permanently. Then measure from center to the far end then cut the pipe and thread it. This does not always work with short pieces or nipples, but it eliminates 1/2 of any possible
"Make in" error and makes things more accurate.
"Make in" error and makes things more accurate.
Re: Injection tee spacing
Hot Rod. Your last drawings notes 4 x diameter, Interesting. Scrubbing is my piping slang 😁 as the injection flow is backwards to the building loop. I’m calling the boiler loop primary and the building loop secondary. Primary and secondary loops both have Grundfos pumps. Boiler pumps into a Calefi hydraulic separator.
Re: Injection tee spacing
Correction on my late night post. There is actually 3 loops. Boilers pump into the hydraulic separator. The the hydraulic separator pumps into the building loop via injection tees. The building loop has pumps on its own.
Re: Stadler Zone Valves
Those are probably the older high current draw actuator, so see if the current draw is listed on those actuators, to know how many will work on a 40Va transformer.
Possibly some of the new 250 ma actuators will fit, it depends on the pin stroke, may as well run those until they fail.
Really should use sealed actuators on inverted manifolds to keep any pex fitting seeping from hitting the heat motor. Caleffi 6564 is a sealed actuator for inverted mounting.
Caleffi ZVR 106 has two 40 Va transformers in parallel, for 80Va total. A relay box is a good idea to clean up that rats nest wiring
At some point it may be wise to replace the entire manifold. Is that tube a metric size, do you know?
Possibly some of the new 250 ma actuators will fit, it depends on the pin stroke, may as well run those until they fail.
Really should use sealed actuators on inverted manifolds to keep any pex fitting seeping from hitting the heat motor. Caleffi 6564 is a sealed actuator for inverted mounting.
Caleffi ZVR 106 has two 40 Va transformers in parallel, for 80Va total. A relay box is a good idea to clean up that rats nest wiring
At some point it may be wise to replace the entire manifold. Is that tube a metric size, do you know?
hot_rod
2
Re: Stadler Zone Valves
They will but those heat motors and that manifold are also obsolete and difficult to get parts for. Sometimes there are adapters that allow you to use available parts but if you're replacing things you probably want to consider replacing the manifolds too.
mattmia2
2
Stadler Zone Valves
I have an older radiant manifold that uses Stadler zone valves. The control are a custom field-built setup that is 32 years old. I'd like to replace this with a Zone control like the Taco ZVC405. The Stadler valves are 2 wire 24 volt. Does anyone know if these will work with the Taco or similar controller? Thanks
theowwm
1
Re: 2” HDPE
I don't know about HDPE. But we used 2" Pex on an underground. The "coil" was like 6' in diameter. One guy threw out his back.
Re: Old church, stained glass windows, weird steam heating loop.
I found this conversation telling me more about the commentors than what I see as normal in my training. I saw the pipe and the windows and asked myself what the problem or symptoms were that caused the placement of the piping. So, I thought, what happens on the glass when it's cold outside and its warm and moist inside? Then I thought who would complain or see the symptoms and what would they want to do about it? So, if I was sitting there what would I feel? A cold draft. Clue 1. Next, I thought what would the glass be doing? It would be frosting on the inside if cold and humid enough. And that would cause water damage when in thawed. So how to fix it? That solution is plainly evident by the pipes. And why just pipes and not a radiator? it's simple; it did the job and was less visible than anything larger. And as they say if it is painted the same color as the wall it disappears after a while. Usually, it is the unexpected results that create the unusual solutions to problems short of more expensive options. Dan said think like steam and air, we also need to think like people and buildings in how they react, feel, and perform when confronted with everyday changes.
Lance
1
Re: Help! Attack of the pinhole leaks.
Dealing with this on Long Island for too many years. Check into all of the suggestion's electrolysis, water velocity, circulator friction, etc. The most common factor is chlorine. The water companies will bump up chlorine levels to acceptable for drinking BUT not copper pipe.Actually, the problem is when chlorine gets replaced by chloramine. When we had pinholes breaking out throughout the house (here in southern California, not Long Island), I bit the bullet and had our entire house re-piped in Uponor pex. By the way, the water's pH here has always been alkaline.
Re: Help! Attack of the pinhole leaks.
Another cause of pinhole leaks not in pdf, maybe not this one, but where to check. I see sharkbites..
Used to work in water. Ended up being responsible for replacing water line near the exit of a building. After vacuum digging for a week in flowing sand, became motivated to consider why here, it led to more discovery.
Thanks to electrical code wanting a ground, occasionally, there is some stray current via many possible methods applied to a ground, which is also applied to the pipes. Current takes all paths.
The ground rod is required to have less than 50 ohms resistance, but that doesn't mean current won't travel out of the copper supply pipe into the ground around it, causing pin holes just outside of the foundation.
There is also the pushfit / sharkbite problem which creates an electrical separation, where two pipes are nearly butted together and electricity flows through the water from one to the next, pitting the inside.
There is also the bad neutral (not quite 0 ohms) connection down the street, so current flows from N to ground to water pipe to main water pipe to next house ground to to neutral then back to transformer.
There is also, the house on one transformer, connected to the water system on another transformer. Any difference in Neutral may cause current to flow.
Poor Neutral connection to transformer will cause current on the ground rod to seek the xfmr ground rod.
Least likely, power closely paralleling a pipe over a distance can induce current.
Anytime I see tells of green oxidation I get out the good sensitive meter with a best current clamp.
Place clamp right over suspect tube/wire.
Just bc you don't see potentials now doesn't mean it might not be part time with a switched circuit.
Check for current on ground wire at the electrical service entry panel. Should be none.
Check for voltage between Neutral and ground. Should be none.
Check for voltage difference on both sides of push fit. (even brass push fits sealed by O-ring and plastic retained ss teeth may completely electrically isolate each side of a connection)
Check for current on water line entry before ground connection.
Check for current on water line to remote building bad Neutral will cause current return on pipe.
If you connect a 15amp breaker, a 120v line-Neutral to a 40 ohm ground(s), the breaker will not likely open.
120/40 ohms = 3 amps. You have a 360 watt power distribution somewhere.
Used to work in water. Ended up being responsible for replacing water line near the exit of a building. After vacuum digging for a week in flowing sand, became motivated to consider why here, it led to more discovery.
Thanks to electrical code wanting a ground, occasionally, there is some stray current via many possible methods applied to a ground, which is also applied to the pipes. Current takes all paths.
The ground rod is required to have less than 50 ohms resistance, but that doesn't mean current won't travel out of the copper supply pipe into the ground around it, causing pin holes just outside of the foundation.
There is also the pushfit / sharkbite problem which creates an electrical separation, where two pipes are nearly butted together and electricity flows through the water from one to the next, pitting the inside.
There is also the bad neutral (not quite 0 ohms) connection down the street, so current flows from N to ground to water pipe to main water pipe to next house ground to to neutral then back to transformer.
There is also, the house on one transformer, connected to the water system on another transformer. Any difference in Neutral may cause current to flow.
Poor Neutral connection to transformer will cause current on the ground rod to seek the xfmr ground rod.
Least likely, power closely paralleling a pipe over a distance can induce current.
Anytime I see tells of green oxidation I get out the good sensitive meter with a best current clamp.
Place clamp right over suspect tube/wire.
Just bc you don't see potentials now doesn't mean it might not be part time with a switched circuit.
Check for current on ground wire at the electrical service entry panel. Should be none.
Check for voltage between Neutral and ground. Should be none.
Check for voltage difference on both sides of push fit. (even brass push fits sealed by O-ring and plastic retained ss teeth may completely electrically isolate each side of a connection)
Check for current on water line entry before ground connection.
Check for current on water line to remote building bad Neutral will cause current return on pipe.
If you connect a 15amp breaker, a 120v line-Neutral to a 40 ohm ground(s), the breaker will not likely open.
120/40 ohms = 3 amps. You have a 360 watt power distribution somewhere.
farmwi
1