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Re: Lamp wick and dope
They all get the job done, generally. Its more of a Pride of craftsmanship & style thing to differentiate yourself: ' I'm a Burnham Man...Riello guy...Megaloc..." ad nauseum. Any Pipe dope that smells like Petroleum (Permatex, et cetera) I would not recommend on domestic water joints. Mad Dog 🐕
Re: issue with converted gas power burner
Seems from here for the moment the problem is fuel supply problem , gas pressure readings will be needed . From the hip does the problem burner run ok if the sister unit is off ?
Big Ed_4
3
Re: Biasi vs Typical Pin-Style
Actually Bob...
All systems will run at 140 degrees - and do!
They operate at all temperatures from ambient to the limit setting. 75% of the time they run around 140° because the stat is satisfied by the time it gets there (like this spring e.g. here in NJ) as well as well over that in dead of winter when 140 will be the lowest temps during an off cycle.
A zillion other factors come into play but I'd bet you'd be amazed at how many boilers in NJ actually have a seasonal average water temperature of 140° or even less!
I support the AFUE standard wholeheartedly. Both for typical hot water systems and radiant as well.
All the whiners who lament the AFUE standard are the ones who think it unfare because they can't meet a number based on the standard.
keep in mind something many do not understand or even want to (for selfish reasons), the water temperature is at the outlet. Not the return. Also realize the boiler water temperature has little to do with the stack temperatures and condensing.
True, they are "related" but we have seen boilers with water temps at 200 and stack temps at 140 and also seen water temps at 140 and stack temps at 300+.
Just because a boiler runs with 140° water temps does NOT assure it will condense in the flue (or inside the boiler either!)
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"
All systems will run at 140 degrees - and do!
They operate at all temperatures from ambient to the limit setting. 75% of the time they run around 140° because the stat is satisfied by the time it gets there (like this spring e.g. here in NJ) as well as well over that in dead of winter when 140 will be the lowest temps during an off cycle.
A zillion other factors come into play but I'd bet you'd be amazed at how many boilers in NJ actually have a seasonal average water temperature of 140° or even less!
I support the AFUE standard wholeheartedly. Both for typical hot water systems and radiant as well.
All the whiners who lament the AFUE standard are the ones who think it unfare because they can't meet a number based on the standard.
keep in mind something many do not understand or even want to (for selfish reasons), the water temperature is at the outlet. Not the return. Also realize the boiler water temperature has little to do with the stack temperatures and condensing.
True, they are "related" but we have seen boilers with water temps at 200 and stack temps at 140 and also seen water temps at 140 and stack temps at 300+.
Just because a boiler runs with 140° water temps does NOT assure it will condense in the flue (or inside the boiler either!)
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"
Ken_8
1
Re: Help with one-pipe boiler heating system
If the other radiators on that zone are cast iron baseboard, you would be wise to use the same for your addition. Cast iron has a much higher thermal mass than fin tube. If you mix the two types in one zone, the rooms with fin tube will tend to underheat.
Since additions are often built and insulated differently from the main building and have a different heating load profile, it's usually best to put them on their own zone. In that case you could use fin tube in the addition.
Since additions are often built and insulated differently from the main building and have a different heating load profile, it's usually best to put them on their own zone. In that case you could use fin tube in the addition.
bburd
1
Re: Help with one-pipe boiler heating system
Normally a monoflow tee is installed on the baseboard return and a regular tee is put on the supply.
But it will work with the monoflow on the supply and a regular tee on the return as long as the monoflow tee is in the correct orientation.
If your heat loss for this room is 15,000 btus or less (about 27' of total baseboard) then 1/2" copper should be ok. Anything over that should be 3/4"
The reason you have 3/4 baseboard on 1/2" Monoflo system is that 3/4 baseboard is much more common....and the supply houses only want to stock 1 size. 1/2" fin tube is available but most do not stock it.
The monoflow tees and regular tees are sized based on the room heat loss and the btus of the baseboard connected to it.
But it will work with the monoflow on the supply and a regular tee on the return as long as the monoflow tee is in the correct orientation.
If your heat loss for this room is 15,000 btus or less (about 27' of total baseboard) then 1/2" copper should be ok. Anything over that should be 3/4"
The reason you have 3/4 baseboard on 1/2" Monoflo system is that 3/4 baseboard is much more common....and the supply houses only want to stock 1 size. 1/2" fin tube is available but most do not stock it.
The monoflow tees and regular tees are sized based on the room heat loss and the btus of the baseboard connected to it.
Re: Oil tank failure due to overfilling and overpressure
Here's my problem with this post. There is still NO evidence that the oil company overfilled it. Overfill comes out the vent, and into the site gauge. Yet almost everyone wants to blame the oil company and/or the driver.
The tank could've been over pressured, due to a partially clogged vent. This isn't something and oil company knows or can check, unless the tank stops whistling.
The OP stated in his initial post,
"...There was no apparent oil on the ground outside at the fill and vent lines..." So it wasn't over filled.
Over pressured? Maybe, but that doesn't cause multiple leaks and there would be other signs. The fire marshalls' initial conclusion is irresponsible and probably won't be his testimony on cross examination should this go to a trial.
The only thing I see here is that the union leaked, and if the tank has leaked in other places that's a tank failure, not the oil companies fault either.
Now the way the oil company allegedly handled it wasn't the best. I say 'allegedly' because we don't know their side of the story. You may have called in a way that put them on guard, so they handled it by the book. Which is why they wanted you to sign something, which you didn't have to do. But a good lawyer would rip that apart, forcing you to sign under duress. Also 70 years is a long time for someone to just turn their back on you.
As far as your homeowners insurance, I think you should pursue them with an attorney and maybe a public adjuster. When you got your policy, they would have (should have) asked if you had an oil tank, and would tell you if they include or specifically exclude coverage, or if you needed an addendum for coverage.
Only one time I ever even heard of an insurance company denying a leak/spill claim. A customer of mine who had an outside tank against the house. The tank failed/leaked down the exterior foundation wall, but because it was a 100+ year old house, it had a (can't remember the exact term) loose ruble (stone) foundation, and heating oil leaked into the basement. The insurance company covered everything that happened on the exterior of the house, but nothing on the inside of the house.
The smell.
This is why in my first post I mentioned getting an attorney and in this post even a public adjuster. If it was (about) 130 gallons, getting the smell out is almost impossible to do on your own. You'll need a company who specializes in this. Sometimes, the floor (concrete) has to be jackhammered out and removed/replaced. You need this professionally evaluated.
The tank could've been over pressured, due to a partially clogged vent. This isn't something and oil company knows or can check, unless the tank stops whistling.
The OP stated in his initial post,
"...There was no apparent oil on the ground outside at the fill and vent lines..." So it wasn't over filled.
Over pressured? Maybe, but that doesn't cause multiple leaks and there would be other signs. The fire marshalls' initial conclusion is irresponsible and probably won't be his testimony on cross examination should this go to a trial.
The only thing I see here is that the union leaked, and if the tank has leaked in other places that's a tank failure, not the oil companies fault either.
Now the way the oil company allegedly handled it wasn't the best. I say 'allegedly' because we don't know their side of the story. You may have called in a way that put them on guard, so they handled it by the book. Which is why they wanted you to sign something, which you didn't have to do. But a good lawyer would rip that apart, forcing you to sign under duress. Also 70 years is a long time for someone to just turn their back on you.
As far as your homeowners insurance, I think you should pursue them with an attorney and maybe a public adjuster. When you got your policy, they would have (should have) asked if you had an oil tank, and would tell you if they include or specifically exclude coverage, or if you needed an addendum for coverage.
Only one time I ever even heard of an insurance company denying a leak/spill claim. A customer of mine who had an outside tank against the house. The tank failed/leaked down the exterior foundation wall, but because it was a 100+ year old house, it had a (can't remember the exact term) loose ruble (stone) foundation, and heating oil leaked into the basement. The insurance company covered everything that happened on the exterior of the house, but nothing on the inside of the house.
The smell.
This is why in my first post I mentioned getting an attorney and in this post even a public adjuster. If it was (about) 130 gallons, getting the smell out is almost impossible to do on your own. You'll need a company who specializes in this. Sometimes, the floor (concrete) has to be jackhammered out and removed/replaced. You need this professionally evaluated.
Re: Is a radiant barrier the new round earth?
A friend used to sell reflective foul for under the roofs of poultry buildings in Arkansas. It did help lower the hot summertime temperatures
Probably for the first day, then the dust reduced the effectiveness
Probably for the first day, then the dust reduced the effectiveness
hot_rod
1
Re: Viessman oil to gas
Carlin has setup specs for their EZ-Gas Pro for Vitoronds up to the VR1-245. This would be my choice. Go here and scroll almost all the way down:
https://carlincombustion.com/wp-content/uploads/OEM-Guide-2023-010623.pdf
https://carlincombustion.com/wp-content/uploads/OEM-Guide-2023-010623.pdf
Re: Is this asbestos?
I started in 73. I can remember going to a supply house and buying bags of asbestos in the mid 70s so it was still available then.
Re: Any Roth Oil Tank Downsides?
No one uses floating pickup tube anymore.
Roth or similar Granby is all anyone should use.
Installed correctly, no vacuum leak, power purged, single pipe, no tiger loop needed.
Roth or similar Granby is all anyone should use.
Installed correctly, no vacuum leak, power purged, single pipe, no tiger loop needed.